Eton mess
Photo: Acabashi · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Eton mess first appeared in print in 1893 as the dessert served at the annual Eton vs Harrow cricket match, then a major fixture of the London Season. The original 1930s version used strawberries or bananas with ice cream or cream; the meringue addition came later in the 1950s. London's clubs and Wimbledon kept the dish alive as a quintessential summer dessert, and modern London restaurants from Rules to Spring serve seasonal versions through June and July when British strawberries (Cambridge Favourite, Wimbledon Favourite, Hapil) are at peak.

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Common allergens: Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 15 minTotal 45 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 800g ripe British strawberries (use the best you can find)
  • 50g caster sugar, plus 1 tbsp
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 tbsp elderflower cordial (optional but classic for London Season)
  • 600ml double cream (35% fat or higher)
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 150g good shop-bought meringue nests (or 6 small homemade meringues), broken into rough chunks
  • Small handful mint leaves, finely shredded

Method

  1. Hull the strawberries. Set aside a quarter of the prettiest ones for the top.
  2. Halve or quarter the rest. Toss with 50g caster sugar, lemon juice and elderflower cordial in a bowl. Crush half of them lightly with a fork.
  3. Leave to macerate 30 minutes at room temperature; the strawberries release their juice and the sugar becomes a syrup.
  4. Meanwhile, whip the double cream with 1 tbsp caster sugar and the vanilla to soft peaks. Stop before stiff; over-whipped cream goes grainy.
  5. Just before serving, fold the meringue chunks into the cream gently; don't crush the meringue, you want airy shards.
  6. Fold in the macerated strawberries and most of their syrup with 3 folds; the mixture should be streaky pink-white, not uniform.
  7. Spoon into glasses or a large serving bowl.
  8. Top with the reserved whole strawberries, a final drizzle of syrup, and shredded mint.
  9. Serve immediately; the meringue dissolves within 20 minutes of meeting the cream.

Tip from the editors. Assemble within 10 minutes of serving; the dessert is named mess because that's what it becomes when meringue absorbs cream too long.

Where to eat eton mess

Eton mess in London

Rules ★ 4.0

£££ British gastropubCovent Garden

Britain's oldest restaurant on Maiden Lane in Covent Garden London, opened 1798 by Thomas Rule, runs an estate-game-led menu through grouse.

OrderGame pie in season, then steamed steak and kidney pudding with mash.

TipLunch is a third of dinner's price and just as well-staffed. The upstairs cocktail bar runs to 23:00 most nights.

The Wolseley ★ 4.6

££ £18-35BrunchEuropean brasserie breakfast and brunchMayfair

Chris Corbin and Jeremy King's grand European brasserie on Piccadilly in London, opened 2003, runs the city's most-traditional power-breakfast crowd.

OrderEggs Benedict with smoked salmon, plus a flat white

TipWeekday breakfast at 07:30 is the easy slot. The weekend full English at £24 is the marquee brunch order.

Spring ★ 4.3

£££ Modern EuropeanCovent Garden

Skye Gyngell's Modern European dining room inside the New Wing of Somerset House in central London, opened 2014, runs vegetable-led seasonal cooking.

OrderWhatever the spring or autumn vegetable opener is, and the brown butter custard tart for pudding.

TipThe Scratch dinner uses kitchen offcuts to fight food waste and costs £25; the regular menu runs £55 for two courses.

The Ritz 1 ★ ★ 4.1

££££ Tasting £170French fine diningMayfairChef John Williams

The Ritz Piccadilly dining room in Mayfair London, opened 1906 in Cesar Ritz's hotel, holds one Michelin star and runs classical French cooking.

OrderSole Veronique or the Beef Wellington carved tableside, with the cheese trolley to close.

Book8 weeks ahead

TipAfternoon tea in the Palm Court is the easier reservation; dinner books 8 weeks ahead with strict dress code.

Sketch 3 ★ ★ 4.7

££££ Tasting £245French bistroMayfairChef Pierre Gagnaire

Mourad Mazouz and Pierre Gagnaire's Conduit Street dining rooms in Mayfair London, opened 2002, hold three Michelin stars in the Lecture Room and run a famed.

OrderThe Pierre Gagnaire signature plate in the Lecture Room, or afternoon tea in the pink Gallery.

Book8 weeks ahead

TipThe Gallery serves the bistro menu and books a fortnight ahead; the three-starred Lecture Room is the eight-week wait.

St John ★ 4.8

£££ Modern BritishClerkenwell

Fergus Henderson's St John in Clerkenwell has cooked the nose-to-tail British canon in London since 1994. Priced at £££. Kitchen leans modern british.

OrderRoast bone marrow with parsley salad and toast, then Eccles cake with Lancashire.

TipThe bakery counter near the front sells the same Eccles cakes, doughnuts and brown loaf to take away if you can't get a booking.

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