London has eaten seafood seriously since its days as a working river port, and the tradition survives in both white-tablecloth rooms and market counters. J Sheekey in Covent Garden is the theatreland classic, open since the 1890s, while Wright Brothers at Borough Market keeps the trade closer to its oyster-bar roots.
The Caprice Holdings seafood institution on St Martin's Court in Covent Garden London, opened 1896, runs a pre-theatre fish-focused menu with the oyster bar.
OrderSheekey's fish pie and a half-dozen native oysters from the oyster bar list.
TipThe Oyster Bar at no. 28-32 takes walk-ins at the bar; the main dining room books two weeks ahead for evening service.
Robin Hancock and Ben Wright's seafood counter on Stoney Street next to Borough Market in London, opened 2002, runs a daily-fresh oyster menu and a serious.
OrderHalf a dozen West Mersea or Lindisfarne native oysters, then the fish pie with mashed potato top.
TipCounter seats face the bar. Lunch runs walk-in; Saturday at noon is the un-touristed slot before market crowds peak.
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