Thai cooking in London has shifted from gentle high-street curries towards the fierce, fire-driven cooking of the country's regions. Kiln in Soho grills and clay-pots its way through northern and Isaan dishes along a counter, while Smoking Goat in Shoreditch brings the same heat-forward, smoke-heavy approach to a buzzier room.
Ben Chapman's wood-fired Northern Thai counter in Soho London, opened 2016, sits in front of an open grill that turns out skewers and clay-pot noodles.
OrderClay pot baked glass noodles with brown crab, plus a skewer of aged Tamworth cured pork.
TipCounter seats are walk-in only after 17:30. Lunch tables behind the counter take bookings two weeks ahead.
The Smoking Goat charcoal Thai BBQ kitchen on Shoreditch High Street in east London, opened 2014 in Soho then moved to a larger Shoreditch site in 2017.
TipWalk-up at the bar; tables book a week ahead through their site. The fish-sauce wings and lardo-curry are the canonical orders.
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