CuisineModern European
Price£££
Neighbourhoodhackney

Signature dishes: Beef tartare, Whatever Modern European plate is on

Must order: Beef tartare with bone-marrow chips, and a glass of Jura red from the natural-wine list.

Tip: Open Wed-Sun, kitchen runs to 23:30. The downstairs wine room takes walk-ins on weeknights.

Location

Address: 277 Hackney Road, London E2 8NA

More casual dining in London

Regency Cafe ★ 4.5

British greasy spoon£westminster

The 1946 Westminster greasy spoon on Regency Street in London, white-tiled formica-tabled cafe, runs the canonical London full English at the counter for under £10.

Signature: Full English breakfast, Beef pie

Order: The full English with white bloomer toast, plus a mug of strong tea.

Tip: Cash and contactless. Closed Sundays and Saturday afternoons. The 09:00 queue is film-crew familiar.

E Pellicci ★ 4.5

Italian-British greasy spoon£shoreditch-spitalfields

The Pellicci family's 1900 east-London cafe on Bethnal Green Road, Grade-II listed for the 1946 marquetry interior, runs a daily Italian-British greasy spoon menu.

Signature: Full English breakfast, Pasta lasagna

Order: The full English with extra fried bread, and a slice of their housemade lasagna.

Tip: Cash and card; closed Sundays. Queue runs out the door on Saturday morning. The interior is the listed treasure.

Franco Manca Brixton ★ 4.5

Sourdough pizza£brixton-tooting

Giuseppe Mascoli's original sourdough-pizza counter inside Brixton Market in London, opened 2008, runs slow-fermented Neapolitan-style dough at under £8 a pie.

Signature: Margherita pizza, Anchovy and capers pizza

Order: Margherita with mozzarella from a Cumbrian buffalo farm, plus a glass of Gavi from the list.

Tip: Walk-up only at the Brixton original. Friday and Saturday queue 30 minutes; weekday lunches walk in without waiting.

Honest Burgers Brixton ★ 4.2

British burgers£brixton-tooting

Tom Barton, Phil Eeles and Dorian Waite's first Honest Burgers counter in Brixton Village London, opened 2011, runs dry-aged Ginger Pig beef and the rosemary-salt chips.

Signature: Honest burger with rosemary chips, Plant burger

Order: The Honest burger (smoked bacon, mature cheddar, red onion relish), with rosemary chips on the side.

Tip: Walk-up only at the Brixton original. Online queue system; expect 30 minutes on weekend lunches.

The Jugged Hare ★ 4.3

British gastropub£££clerkenwell

The Jugged Hare on Chiswell Street in the City of London, opened 2012 by ETM Group, runs a game-led gastropub menu with hung-game cabinets in the dining room.

Signature: Whole roast game, Sunday roast

Order: Whole roast partridge or grouse in season, or the family-style Sunday roast in winter.

Tip: Lunch and pre-theatre runs walk-in friendly. Sunday roast books a fortnight ahead through their site.

Gunpowder Spitalfields ★ 4.6

Indian small plates££shoreditch-spitalfields

Harneet Baweja's family-recipe Indian small-plates kitchen on White's Row in Spitalfields London, opened 2015, plates regional Indian home cooking, no buffet, no naan basket.

Signature: Spicy venison doughnut, Chettinad pulled lamb shoulder

Order: Spicy venison doughnut, then Chettinad pulled lamb shoulder for two.

Tip: Tiny room. Bookings open six weeks ahead and burn fast. Counter seats released as walk-ins from 17:30.

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