Wood-fired Scottish££portobello
Fort and Field on Portobello High Street in Edinburgh, opened 2024, a wood-fired neighbourhood kitchen on the seaside running open-fire grill plates.
Order: The flat-iron steak from the woodfire and the charred hispi cabbage with anchovy butter.
Tip: The wood-fired pizza Wednesday is a half-price deal and the local crowd shows up early.
Steakhouse£££new-town
Hawksmoor's Edinburgh branch on West Register Street in New Town Edinburgh, opened in 2019 inside the former National Bank of Scotland Hall, the steakhouse.
Order: The 800g porterhouse for two from native Scottish beef and the beef-dripping fries.
Tip: Express menu before 18:30 and after 22:00 runs three courses at GBP 28; the express menu version of the same kitchen.
Scottish gastropub££stockbridge
Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack's Stockbridge gastropub in Edinburgh, opened in 2013, the casual sibling to The Kitchin running British classics in a Comely Bank.
Order: Fish and chips with mushy peas, or the Sunday roast that books out a week ahead.
Tip: Children's menu is taken seriously here; meatballs and mash is a proper plate.
Bombay-Irani cafe££old-town
The Edinburgh outpost of the London Bombay-Irani cafe on St Andrew Square in Edinburgh, opened in 2016, a 200-cover all-day room in the former Bank of Scotland.
Order: Bacon naan roll at breakfast, house black daal at any other time.
Tip: No dinner bookings under six; walk in from 17:30 and wait 30 to 60 minutes. Basement bar pours while you queue.
Modern Scottish££old-town
Howies on Victoria Street in Edinburgh's Old Town, the flagship of David Howie Scott's Scottish-bistro mini-chain opened 1990, an everyday Scottish-classics.
Order: Haggis bonbons with whisky cream and the Aberdeen Angus steak with peppercorn sauce.
Tip: Pre-theatre two-course menu 17:30 to 19:00 is GBP 22, the best value in the Old Town.
Italian pizza£old-town
Michele Civiera's Hunter Square pizza counter in Edinburgh, opened in 2016, the Old Town slice-counter serving Roman al taglio square-tray pizza into the small.
Order: The salsiccia e friarielli slice and a square of margherita; eat at the counter or on the cobbles outside.
Tip: Open till 02:00 on weekends; the only proper food on the Royal Mile after midnight that is not a kebab shop.