Italian Pizza£old-townDaily 11:00-23:00
Michele Civiera's Hunter Square pizza counter in Edinburgh, opened in 2016, the Old Town slice-counter serving Roman al taglio square-tray pizza.
Order: The salsiccia e friarielli slice and a square of margherita; eat at the counter or on the cobbles outside.
Tip: Open till 02:00 on weekends; the only proper food on the Royal Mile after midnight that is not a kebab shop.
Neapolitan Pizza££canonmills-inverleithSun 12:00-21:00
The Dundas Street pizzeria in Canonmills Edinburgh, opened 2019, a 60-second wood-fired Neapolitan kitchen with 00-flour dough and Italian San Marzano.
Order: The Geek Margherita and the salsiccia-and-friarielli with stracciatella.
Tip: Their second branch on Drum Street takes walk-ins more reliably than the Canonmills original.
Eastern Mediterranean££new-townMon-Sun 12:00-21:00
Baba on George Street in Edinburgh's New Town, opened in 2018 by the Kyloe steakhouse group, a Levantine small-plates kitchen serving mezze.
Order: Baba ghanoush, the lamb shawarma flatbread and the house pita with za'atar.
Tip: The mezze deal at lunch (four plates plus a drink for £22) is one of George Street's best value menus.
Japanese££bruntsfield-morningsideMon 12:00-14:30, Mon 17:00-21:30, Tue 12:00-14:30, Tue 17:00-21:30, Wed 12:00-14:30, Wed 17:00-21:30, Thu 12:00-14:30, Thu 17:00-21:30, Fri 12:00-14:30, Fri 17:00-21:30, Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-15:30, Sun 17:00-21:30
Kaori Simpson's Bruntsfield Japanese kitchen on Gillespie Place in Edinburgh, opened in 2013, a family-run kaiseki and izakaya room cooking authentic Tokyo.
Order: Bento set at lunch and the gyoza dumplings; ask whether the homemade kimchi is on the day's menu.
Tip: The Bruntsfield branch is the original; the Stockbridge offshoot is brighter but the south-side room takes more walk-ins.
Italian££tollcross-west-endMon-Thu 17:30-22:00, Fri 12:30-15:30 17:30-22:00, Sat 12:30-22:00
Rosario Sartore's Dalry Road kitchen in Edinburgh, opened in 2013, a family-run Neapolitan dining room running pasta, seafood and wood-fired pizza.
Order: Pesce all'acqua pazza (whole fish in tomato broth) and the homemade pappardelle with wild boar.
Tip: The lunchtime three-course express menu at £18 is one of the city's best Italian-value deals.
Italian££new-townMon-Fri 10:00-21:45, Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
Victor and Carina Contini's George Street dining room in Edinburgh, opened in 2004 in the former Lloyds Bank, an Italian-Scottish bistro serving.
Order: The Contini meatballs, the Sicilian sea bass and a glass of the Continis' own-import Etna Rosso.
Tip: The high tea at 15:00-17:00 is a quieter alternative; Sunday family lunch is a long-running tradition.