old-townDaily 12:00-02:00
Clamshell fish bar on the High Street of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, opened in the 1970s, a Royal Mile chippy serving haddock suppers, hot pies and the famous.
Try: Fish supper and deep-fried Mars bar
Tip: Late-night Royal Mile counter; service runs to 02:00 most nights. Deep-fried Mars bar is a tourist novelty done properly here.
canonmills-inverleithMon-Sat 08:00-17:30, closed Sun
Valvona and Crolla deli counter on Elm Row in Edinburgh, opened 1934, Scotland's longest-running Italian deli with a sandwich counter making prosciutto rolls.
Try: Italian deli sandwich on house bread
Tip: Sandwich list runs from a chalkboard; the porchetta with rocket and house mayonnaise is the long-running favourite.
old-townSun-Thu 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00
Bertie's Proper Fish and Chips on Victoria Street in Edinburgh Old Town, a sit-down and takeaway chippy opened in the former Grassmarket arch, cooking fresh.
Try: Haddock and chips
Tip: Downstairs seating is first-come only; the takeaway counter is faster for a lunchtime bag of chips.
new-townMon-Thu 17:00-21:15, Fri-Sun 16:00-21:15
L'Alba D'Oro on Henderson Row in Edinburgh New Town, opened 1975 and named UK's best fish and chip shop by The Times, sourcing haddock fresh daily from Peterhead.
Try: Battered haddock and chips
Tip: Evening-only, no lunches. Arrive at 17:00 on a weeknight to avoid the post-work queue that builds fast.
old-townDaily 11:00-17:00 (or sold out)
Oink hog roast counter on Victoria Street in Edinburgh Old Town, opened 2008, the city's whole-pig-on-a-spit lunch counter with three branches selling.
Try: Hog roll with stuffing and apple sauce
Tip: Order the haggis-stuffed roll for the proper Edinburgh combo; they close when the pig runs out, often before 15:00.
southside-newingtonDaily 11:30-19:30
Mosque Kitchen on Nicolson Square in Southside Edinburgh, opened 1998 inside the Edinburgh Central Mosque courtyard, a counter-service Pakistani-style.
Try: Lamb biryani
Tip: Order at the till, pick up at the counter; the lamb biryani at GBP 7 is the long-running lunch deal for medical students.