Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Istanbul actually eats.

Where to eat well, no fuss

Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta ★ 4.2

₺ KöfteSultanahmet

Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta on Divanyolu, the 1920 original now run by the fourth generation, still grilling its flat charcoal köfte beside piyaz.

SignatureKöfte, Piyaz, Lentil soup

Tarihi Hocapaşa Pidecisi ★ 4.3

₺ TurkishEminönü

Tarihi Hocapaşa Pidecisi off the Sirkeci side-streets, pulling kıymalı and kuşbaşılı pide from a wood oven since the 1960s for the lunchtime suit crowd.

SignatureKıymalı pide, Kuşbaşılı pide, Lahmacun

Borsam Taşfırın ★ 4.2

₺ TurkishKadıköy

Borsam Taşfırın in Kadıköy, a stone-oven lahmacun and pide salon running since 1968 with a counter line that turns over every five minutes at lunch.

SignatureLahmacun, Kıymalı pide, Yumurta pide

Bahar Restaurant ★ 4.1

₺ TurkishFatih

Bahar Restaurant tucked inside a Grand Bazaar han off the Nuruosmaniye gate, an esnaf lokanta serving stews and pilav to the bazaar's working merchants.

SignatureDaily kuru fasulye, Hünkar beğendi, Stewed lamb

Köfteci Hüseyin ★ 4.2

₺ KöfteBeyoğlu

Köfteci Hüseyin on Kurabiye Sokak off Taksim, the Hüseyin Taşsöken counter that started on a 1958 push-cart, salt-bread-onion patties grilled.

SignatureIzgara köfte, Piyaz, Ayran

Karaköy Güllüoğlu ★ 4.7

₺₺ TurkishKaraköy

Karaköy Güllüoğlu has rolled phyllo baklava since 1949 at one Rıhtım Caddesi counter near Galataport, Nadir Güllü's pistachio version the canonical Istanbul.

SignatureFıstıklı baklava, Şöbiyet, Kadayıf

Hafız Mustafa 1864 ★ 4.2

₺₺ TurkishEminönü

Hafız Mustafa 1864 on Hamidiye Caddesi, the original Sultan Abdülaziz-era candy shop at the Eminönü viaduct, now a multi-floor stop for baklava.

SignaturePistachio baklava, Turkish delight, Sütlaç

Pandeli Lokantası ★ 3.9

₺₺ Ottoman TurkishEminönü

Pandeli above the Spice Bazaar gates, the 1901 blue-tiled Bib Gourmand lunch room still cooking Ottoman dolma and courgette-flower fritters into the Eminönü.

SignatureDolma, Stuffed courgette flowers, Hünkar beğendi

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