40 mid-range rooms in Istanbul, editor-picked. the comfortable everyday-good rooms in Istanbul, with real cooking and no surprise on the bill. All Istanbul food.

Çiya Sofrası ★ 4.8

kadıköy · Caferağa Mah., Güneşlibahçe Sokak No:43, 34710 Kadıköy, İstanbul

Chef Musa Dağdeviren's culinary-anthropology lokanta in Kadıköy market, plating regional Turkish dishes drawn from his fieldwork since 1998.

The Populist ★ 4.8

şişli · Merkez Mah., Birahane Sokak No:1/D, 34381 Şişli, İstanbul

The Populist inside the historic Bomonti Beer Factory, a Bomontiada brewpub pouring Torch Brewery's 12-tap rotation including a Turkish wheat with anise.

Karaköy Güllüoğlu ★ 4.7

karaköy · Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mah., Rıhtım Caddesi No:3-4, 34425 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Karaköy Güllüoğlu has rolled phyllo baklava since 1949 at one Rıhtım Caddesi counter near Galataport, Nadir Güllü's pistachio version the canonical Istanbul.

Kronotrop ★ 4.6

cihangir · Kuloğlu Mah., Firuzağa Cami Sokak No:2/B, 34433 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Kronotrop in Cihangir, the country's first micro-roastery, opened on a Firuzağa corner with the first La Marzocco Strada in Turkey and a tight East-African.

Mandabatmaz ★ 4.6

beyoğlu · Asmalı Mescit Mah., Olivya Geçidi No:1A, 34430 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Mandabatmaz, the 1967 family-run Beyoğlu coffee bar in Olivya Geçidi, whose copper-cezve Turkish coffee is brewed so thick the cup is said to hold a water.

Bosphorus Brewing Company ★ 4.6

şişli · Esentepe Mah., Yıldız Posta Caddesi No:1/1A, 34330 Şişli, İstanbul

Bosphorus Brewing Company in Esentepe, run by an English-Turkish team using Norfolk hops, pouring 12 own-make taps led by their Istanbul Pale Ale.

Karaköy Güllüoğlu ★ 4.6

karaköy · Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mah., Rıhtım Caddesi No:3-4, 34425 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Karaköy Güllüoğlu, the 1949 baklava counter on Rıhtım still cutting pistachio baklava with a scoop of clotted cream until midnight for after-dinner Karaköy.

Mandabatmaz ★ 4.6

beyoğlu · Asmalı Mescit Mah., Olivya Geçidi No:1A, 34430 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Mandabatmaz in Olivya Geçidi, a one-table Beyoğlu Turkish coffee bar running since 1967, the cup of foam so dense the buffalo doesn't sink. Family-friendly.

Tip: Order an orta-şekerli (medium-sweet) and stay for two; the kahveci will keep refilling water.

Karaköy Lokantası ★ 4.5

karaköy · Kemankeş Mah., Kemankeş Caddesi No:57, 34425 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

The teal-tiled Karaköy Lokantası, Bib Gourmand listed in the Michelin Guide, runs an Ottoman-leaning lunch lokanta downstairs and a meyhane upstairs at night.

Antiochia ★ 4.5

beyoğlu · Asmalı Mescit Mah., General Yazgan Sokak No:3, 34430 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Antiochia in Asmalımescit cooks the kebabs and mezze of Antakya, Turkey's Levant border city, on a tight Beyoğlu side-street menu of southeastern grills.

Siirt Şeref Büryan ★ 4.5

fatih · İtfaiye Caddesi No:4, Kadınlar Pazarı, 34087 Fatih, İstanbul

Siirt Şeref Büryan on İtfaiye Caddesi, a Kadınlar Pazarı corner pulling lamb büryan from a tandır pit oven that fires through the night, the Avcı family.

Tip: Order büryan around 11:00 before the lunch crowd; the perde pilavı and a tas kebabı round out a full table.

Van Kahvaltı Evi ★ 4.5

cihangir · Kılıçali Paşa Mah., Defterdar Yokuşu No:52/A, 34425 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Van Kahvaltı Evi in Cihangir, the dense Eastern-Anatolian serpme spread of herb cheese, kaymak and clotted-cream eggs that defines a Sunday Turkish breakfast.

Develi1912 Samatya ★ 4.4

samatya · Koca Mustafapaşa, Gümüş Yüksük Sokak No:5, Samatya, 34098 Fatih, İstanbul

Develi has fired Gaziantep kebabs at its Samatya address for decades, the canonical Istanbul pistachio kebap stop behind the old Marmara walls.

Yakup 2 ★ 4.4

beyoğlu · Asmalı Mescit Mah., Asmalı Mescit Sokak No:21/B, 34430 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Yakup 2 on Asmalı Mescit Sokak, the Yakup Arslan meyhane founded in 1977 after seventeen years at Refik next door, multi-time winner of best-meyhane awards.

Çiya Kebap ★ 4.4

kadıköy · Caferağa Mah., Güneşlibahçe Sokak No:44, 34710 Kadıköy, İstanbul

Çiya Kebap, the original 1987 sister to Çiya Sofrası on the opposite side of Güneşlibahçe in Kadıköy market, fires kebabs, lahmacun and pide from a single.

Petra Roasting Co. ★ 4.4

nişantaşı · Teşvikiye Mah., Prof. Dr. Orhan Ersek Sokak No:17, 34367 Şişli, İstanbul

Petra Roasting Co. in Nişantaşı, a third-wave roaster set inside an art gallery hung with antique Mercedes parts, brewing single-origin pour-overs.

Torch Brewery ★ 4.4

şişli · Merkez Mah., Birahane Sokak No:1, 34381 Şişli, İstanbul

Torch Brewery in the Bomontiada complex, the production side feeding The Populist's taps with IPAs, stouts and wheat beers from the historic 1890 Bomonti.

Hayvore ★ 4.4

beyoğlu · Turnacıbaşı Sokak No:4, 34433 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Hayvore off Istiklal, the Black Sea steam-table cooking corn-bread anchovies and smoky bean stews for whoever knows the side street. Located in Beyoğlu.

Tip: Order the hamsi pilav and the muhlama; they only run while supplies last.

Adem Baba ★ 4.4

arnavutköy · Arnavutköy Mah., Beyaz Gül Caddesi No:2, 34345 Beşiktaş, İstanbul

Adem Baba on Beyaz Gül Caddesi, a 1992-founded Arnavutköy fish lokantası where the catch comes off Bosphorus boats moored outside and the family runs three.

Tip: Walk in for lunch on a weekday; no reservations, and the fried calamari and grilled day-catch go fastest.

Antiochia ★ 4.4

beyoğlu · Asmalı Mescit Mah., General Yazgan Sokak No:3, 34430 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Antiochia on a Beyoğlu side street, an Antakya (Hatay) kitchen plating southeastern grills and Levant mezze from a tight Asmalımescit address.

Tip: Order the cevizli biber, the kunefe and the cag kebab together.

Sade Kahve ★ 4.4

sarıyer · Rumeli Hisarı Mah., Yahya Kemal Caddesi No:20, 34470 Sarıyer, İstanbul

Sade Kahve below the Rumeli Hisarı battlements, an all-day Bosphorus terrace where ash-brewed Turkish coffee meets a full kahvaltı board. Located in Sarıyer.

Tip: Come on a weekday morning for the kahvaltı; the terrace fills by 11 on weekends.

Sade Kahve ★ 4.4

sarıyer · Rumeli Hisarı Mah., Yahya Kemal Caddesi No:20, 34470 Sarıyer, İstanbul

Sade Kahve at Rumeli Hisarı, an all-day breakfast house under the fortress walls, the serpme board served on the water-facing terrace until 02:00.

Mükellef Karaköy ★ 4.4

karaköy · Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mah., Maliye Caddesi No:8/A, 34425 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Mükellef in Karaköy under chef Arda Türkmen, a Turkish-cuisine kitchen with a Bosphorus terrace doing a modern weekend brunch with menemen and Karaköy.

Madam Despina ★ 4.3

kurtuluş · Kurtuluş Mah., Akarca Sokak No:9, 34375 Şişli, İstanbul

Madam Despina in old Tatavla, the 1946 Rum meyhane opened by Despina Bademciyan from Gökçeada and still pouring rakı in the grape-leaf garden.

Boncuk ★ 4.3

beyoğlu · Hüseyinağa Mah., Nevizade Sokak No:7/A, 34435 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Boncuk on Nevizade Sokak in Beyoğlu's Balık Pazarı, the Armenian-leaning meyhane built around topik with chickpeas and tahini, kısır bulgur cakes.

Asmalı Cavit ★ 4.3

beyoglu · Asmalı Mescit Mah., Asmalı Mescit Caddesi No:16/D, 34430 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Asmalı Cavit on Asmalı Mescit Caddesi, a 1990s-opened Beyoğlu meyhane where proprietor Cavit Bey works the room nightly over a mezze list led by smoked.

Karabatak Roastery ★ 4.3

karaköy · Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mah., Kara Ali Kaptan Sokak No:7, 34425 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Karabatak in Karaköy, a converted metal-workshop cafe-roastery pouring imported Julius Meinl beans alongside its own house roasts in the old port quarter.

Geyik Coffee Roastery ★ 4.3

cihangir · Kılıçali Paşa Mah., Akarsu Yokuşu No:22/A, 34433 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Geyik on Akarsu Yokuşu, a Cihangir double-shift roastery doing single-origin specialty by day and a cocktail bar at night, run by Turkish barista champion.

Pano Şarap Evi ★ 4.3

beyoğlu · Hüseyinağa Mah., Hamalbaşı Caddesi No:12, 34435 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Pano Şarap Evi on Hamalbaşı, an 1898 Greek-Turkish wine house with a doorway-deep cellar and a Bozcaada bottle list nobody else pours. Located in Beyoğlu.

Tip: Order the Bozcaada Çavuş with a cheese plate; the room only holds about thirty.

Privato Cafe ★ 4.3

beyoğlu · Şahkulu Mah., Galip Dede Caddesi, Tımarcı Sokak No:3/B, 34421 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Privato Cafe in Galata, a brick-walled brunch hall with all-day Turkish kahvaltı, mini gözleme and a side terrace that runs out the side of the Galata Tower.

Journey Cihangir ★ 4.3

cihangir · Kılıçali Paşa Mah., Akarsu Caddesi No:21/A, 34433 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Journey on Akarsu Caddesi, a two-floor Cihangir cafe with a modern brunch take, organic-leaning produce, halloumi plates and a library-style upstairs.

Hafız Mustafa 1864 ★ 4.2

eminönü · Hobyar Mah., Hamidiye Caddesi No:84, 34112 Fatih, İstanbul

Hafız Mustafa 1864 on Hamidiye Caddesi, the original Sultan Abdülaziz-era candy shop at the Eminönü viaduct, now a multi-floor stop for baklava.

Bira Fabrikası Kadıköy ★ 4.2

kadıköy · Caferağa Mah., Sakız Gülü Sokak No:10/A, 34710 Kadıköy, İstanbul

Bira Fabrikası in Kadıköy, the Asian-side beer bar rotating Turkish craft taps from Gara Guzu, Pera, Torch and a small import list, with a tight bar-food.

Şampiyon Kokoreç ★ 4.2

beyoğlu · Hüseyinağa Mah., Sahne Sokak No:21, 34435 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Şampiyon Kokoreç on Sahne Sokak, the 1962 Beyoğlu kokoreççi keeping its charcoal grill burning past midnight for the Balık Pazarı late-rakı crowd.

Tarihi Cumhuriyet Meyhanesi ★ 4.2

beyoğlu · Balık Pazarı, Sahne Sokak No:47, 34435 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Tarihi Cumhuriyet Meyhanesi spread across three floors of Sahne Sokak, the rakı table running with fasıl singers and mezze rounds until 02:00.

Kızılkayalar ★ 4.1

beyoğlu · Katip Mustafa Çelebi Mah., Sıraselviler Caddesi No:2/C, 34433 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Kızılkayalar at Taksim Square open until 03:00, the 1978 wet-burger counter that finishes a Beyoğlu rakı table with a steamed bun and garlic tomato sauce.

Bahar Restaurant ★ 4.1

fatih · Beyazıt Mah., Çarşıkapı Nuruosmaniye Caddesi, Yağcı Han No:13, 34126 Fatih, İstanbul

Bahar Restaurant inside a Yağcı Han courtyard, an esnaf lokanta feeding bazaar working merchants from steam-table stewpots that empty by mid-afternoon.

Tip: Get there before 14:00 or the stewpots are empty.

Akın Balık ★ 4.0

karaköy · Arap Cami Mah., Fermeneciler Caddesi No:40/A, 34421 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Akın Balık in Karaköy's fish-market arcade, a waterside lokanta where the waiter walks guests to the ice display to pick the catch and pulls four meze.

Craft Beer Lab ★ 4.0

beşiktaş · Sinanpaşa Mah., Şair Nedim Caddesi No:4, 34353 Beşiktaş, İstanbul

Craft Beer Lab on Şair Nedim Caddesi in Akaretler, a multi-tap bar pouring the broadest Turkish craft selection in the city, with a garden patio that runs.

Saray Muhallebicisi ★ 4.0

beyoğlu · Kuloğlu Mah., İstiklal Caddesi No:107, 34433 Beyoğlu, İstanbul

Saray Muhallebicisi on Istiklal, the 1935 muhallebici keeping milk puddings, kazandibi and tavuk göğsü flowing for late Beyoğlu walkers until 02:00.