Turkish₺₺fatih
Siirt Şeref Büryan on İtfaiye Caddesi, a Kadınlar Pazarı corner pulling lamb büryan from a tandır pit oven that fires through the night, the Avcı family.
Why locals love it: Buried in Kadınlar Pazarı behind the Valens Aqueduct, the Fatih corner Kurdish migrants from Siirt have run since 1987 and few non-Turkish guidebooks reach.
Tip: Order büryan around 11:00 before the lunch crowd; the perde pilavı and a tas kebabı round out a full table.
Turkish₺₺sarıyer
Sade Kahve below the Rumeli Hisarı battlements, an all-day Bosphorus terrace where ash-brewed Turkish coffee meets a full kahvaltı board. Located in Sarıyer.
Why locals love it: Right under the Rumeli Hisarı walls, far enough up the Bosphorus that most day-trippers never make it.
Tip: Come on a weekday morning for the kahvaltı; the terrace fills by 11 on weekends.
Turkish₺₺beyoğlu
Pano Şarap Evi on Hamalbaşı, an 1898 Greek-Turkish wine house with a doorway-deep cellar and a Bozcaada bottle list nobody else pours. Located in Beyoğlu.
Why locals love it: Tiny 1898 wine cellar on a Hamalbaşı side-lane that the Istiklal crowd walks straight past.
Tip: Order the Bozcaada Çavuş with a cheese plate; the room only holds about thirty.
Turkish₺₺beyoğlu
Hayvore off Istiklal, the Black Sea steam-table cooking corn-bread anchovies and smoky bean stews for whoever knows the side street. Located in Beyoğlu.
Why locals love it: Locals fill it for the Black Sea menu, tourists walk past for the larger Istiklal places ten metres away.
Tip: Order the hamsi pilav and the muhlama; they only run while supplies last.
Seafood₺₺arnavutköy
Adem Baba on Beyaz Gül Caddesi, a 1992-founded Arnavutköy fish lokantası where the catch comes off Bosphorus boats moored outside and the family runs three.
Why locals love it: A no-alcohol Arnavutköy mom-and-pop fish lokantası, off the Bebek tourist drag and known mostly to upper-Bosphorus regulars.
Tip: Walk in for lunch on a weekday; no reservations, and the fried calamari and grilled day-catch go fastest.
Turkish₺₺fatih
Bahar Restaurant inside a Yağcı Han courtyard, an esnaf lokanta feeding bazaar working merchants from steam-table stewpots that empty by mid-afternoon.
Why locals love it: Buried in a small han off the Grand Bazaar's Nuruosmaniye gate, found only by the bazaar merchants who eat there daily.
Tip: Get there before 14:00 or the stewpots are empty.