Shanghai xiaolongbao$$daan
Kao Chi opened in 1949 and relocated to Xinsheng South Road in Taipei, two-minute walk from Dongmen MRT, Shanghainese xiaolongbao and sheng jian bao.
Signature: Xiaolongbao, Sheng jian bao, Drunken chicken
Order: Xiaolongbao, pan-fried sheng jian bao and cold drunken chicken.
Tip: Two minutes from Dongmen MRT exit 7. Open daily 09:30 to 22:30; queues quieter than Din Tai Fung.
Tainan dan zai noodle$daan
Du Hsiao Yueh transplants the 1895 Tainan dan zai bowl onto Yongkang Street in Taipei. Tiny porcelain bowls of shrimp-and-pork noodles, garlic and coriander.
Signature: Dan zai noodle, Shrimp roll, Braised pork rice
Order: Dan zai noodle bowl, shrimp roll, braised pork rice.
Tip: Open 11:30 to 21:30 daily. Order at the counter.
Taiwanese home cooking$$zhongshan
Shin Yeh in Taipei opened 1977 and writes the menu for textbook Taiwanese home cooking. Bib Gourmand, round-table portions, congee on every table.
Signature: Three-cup chicken, Sweet potato congee
Order: Three-cup chicken, sweet-potato congee, stewed pork rice.
Tip: Open 11:00 to 21:30 daily. Phone reservations. Service charge added.
Shanghainese xiaolongbao$$zhongzheng
Hangzhou Xiao Long Tang Bao is the off-Yongkang xiaolongbao counter for Taipei locals near CKS Memorial Hall MRT. Bib Gourmand, crab-roe xiaolongbao.
Signature: Crab-roe xiaolongbao, Sheng jian bao
Order: Crab-roe xiaolongbao, pan-fried sheng jian bao.
Tip: Open 10:30 to 21:00 daily. Walk-in only; weekday queues shorter.
Xiaolongbao$$daan
Din Tai Fung's Xinyi Road original counter in Taipei is the xiaolongbao queue that turned a 1958 oil shop into a global chain. Bib Gourmand listed.
Signature: Xiaolongbao, Niu rou mian, Cucumber starter
Order: Ten-pleat pork xiaolongbao, niu rou mian, cucumber starter.
Tip: Take the queue ticket on arrival and shop Yongkang Street while you wait.
Sichuan and Hunan$$zhongzheng
Rong Rong Yuan is Taipei's 1949-wave Sichuan-Hunan counter that fills its dining room every lunch. Bib Gourmand, mapo tofu the canonical version.
Signature: Mapo tofu, Dan dan noodles
Order: Mapo tofu, dry-fried green beans, dan dan noodles.
Tip: Open 11:30 to 14:00 and 17:00 to 21:00 daily. Walk-ins only.