Madrileno taberna€€la-latina
Casa Lucio on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina has cooked the huevos rotos (broken eggs over fried potatoes) since 1974. The kings and presidents who eat here all order them.
Signature: Huevos rotos, Cocido madrileno, Solomillo
Order: The huevos rotos on a bed of fried potatoes, then a half-portion of the solomillo or the cocido.
Tip: Book ten days ahead by phone; Casa Lucio rarely takes online reservations. Ask for the downstairs dining room when you book.
Madrileno classic€€€centro
Lhardy on Carrera de San Jeronimo in Madrid has run the wood-panelled dining rooms above its Parisian-style charcuterie counter since 1839, serving the city's canonical cocido madrileno.
Signature: Cocido madrileno, Callos a la madrilena, Consome de ave
Order: The three-volcado cocido madrileno on a Tuesday or Thursday. From the counter, the consome from the silver urn.
Tip: The downstairs counter pours consome from the silver urn for 4 euros standing up; the cocido is upstairs by reservation.
Madrileno taberna€€centro
Casa Ciriaco on Calle Mayor in Madrid has served the gallina en pepitoria (hen in almond and saffron sauce) since 1929, three steps from where Alfonso XIII survived the 1906 wedding-day bomb.
Signature: Gallina en pepitoria, Callos a la madrilena, Perdiz estofada
Order: The gallina en pepitoria with rice and the callos a la madrilena. Half-bottle of house Valdepenas.
Tip: Closed Wednesdays. The Tuesday and Thursday cocido is the surest order; the dining room is full of regulars by 14:30.
Cocido madrileno specialist€€centro
Taberna La Bola near the Teatro Real in Madrid has cooked the cocido madrileno in individual clay pots over charcoal since 1870. The dining room is painted vermilion since the 19th century.
Signature: Cocido madrileno, Callos a la madrilena, Bacalao con tomate
Order: The cocido madrileno served the three traditional volcados: broth first, then chickpeas and vegetables, then meats.
Tip: Cocido served at lunch only; book three days ahead for weekday lunch. Cash strongly preferred. No card terminal until late 2024.
Modern Madrileno€€chamberi
Casa Mono in Madrid's Arguelles district is the modern taberna by chef Ramiro Vazquez, with a market-led carte of croquetas, tartares and slow-braised carrilleras since 2008.
Signature: Carrillera estofada, Croquetas de jamon, Tartar de atun
Order: The croquetas de jamon and the carrillera estofada with potato puree. A glass of Lopez de Heredia rosado.
Tip: Book a week ahead for Saturday lunch; the dining room is small. Lunch menu del dia runs 22 euros weekdays.
Modern Madrileno, butcher-counter€€chamberi
Sala de Despiece on Calle Ponzano in Madrid's Chamberi runs the room like a butcher's counter: stainless steel benches, white tiles and the meat carved in front of you since 2013.
Signature: Steak tartare, Lomo en manteca, Tuetano asado
Order: The lomo en manteca (pork loin in lard) and the bone marrow roasted with capers. Glass of Mencia by the glass.
Tip: Walk-in only; arrive before 13:30 for lunch or 20:30 for dinner. The bar stools are the seats locals want.
