Spanish€€€centroMon-Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-16:00
Lhardy on Carrera de San Jeronimo in Madrid has run the wood-panelled dining rooms above its Parisian-style charcuterie counter since 1839, serving.
Signature: Cocido madrileno, Callos a la madrilena, Consome de ave
Order: The three-volcado cocido madrileno on a Tuesday or Thursday.
Tip: The downstairs counter pours consome from the silver urn for 4 euros standing up; the cocido is upstairs by reservation.
Madrileno Taberna€€centroTue-Sun 12:00-23:00; Mon closed
Casa Ciriaco on Calle Mayor in Madrid has served the gallina en pepitoria (hen in almond and saffron sauce) since 1929, three steps from where Alfonso XIII.
Signature: Gallina en pepitoria, Callos a la madrilena, Perdiz estofada
Order: The gallina en pepitoria with rice and the callos a la madrilena. Half-bottle of house Valdepenas.
Tip: Closed Wednesdays. The Tuesday and Thursday cocido is the surest order; the dining room is full of regulars by 14:30.
Cocido Madrileno Specialist€€centroSun-Wed 13:30-16:00; Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri 12:00-20:30; Sat 12:00-20:00
Taberna La Bola near the Teatro Real in Madrid has cooked the cocido madrileno in individual clay pots over charcoal since 1870. Located in Centro.
Signature: Cocido madrileno, Callos a la madrilena, Bacalao con tomate
Order: The cocido madrileno served the three traditional volcados.
Tip: Cocido served at lunch only; book three days ahead for weekday lunch. Cash strongly preferred. No card terminal until late 2024.
Spanish€€chamberiDaily 13:00-02:00
Casa Mono in Madrid's Arguelles district is the modern taberna by chef Ramiro Vazquez, with a market-led carte of croquetas, tartares and slow-braised.
Signature: Carrillera estofada, Croquetas de jamon, Tartar de atun
Order: The croquetas de jamon and the carrillera estofada with potato puree. A glass of Lopez de Heredia rosado.
Tip: Book a week ahead for Saturday lunch; the dining room is small. Lunch menu del dia runs 22 euros weekdays.
Spanish€€chamberiMon-Thu 13:00-17:00 and 19:30-00:30; Fri 13:00-17:30 and 19:30-01:30; Sat 12:30-17:30 and 19:30-01:30; Sun 12:30-17:30 and 19:30-00:30
Sala de Despiece in Madrid's Chamberi runs the room like a butcher's counter: stainless steel benches, white tiles and the meat carved in front of you.
Signature: Steak tartare, Lomo en manteca, Tuetano asado
Order: The lomo en manteca (pork loin in lard) and the bone marrow roasted with capers. Glass of Mencia by the glass.
Tip: Walk-in only; arrive before 13:30 for lunch or 20:30 for dinner. The bar stools are the seats locals want.
Spanish€€€chamberiMon-Fri 13:30-16:00 and 20:30-23:30; Sat 13:30-16:00; Sun closed
Sacha in Madrid's Chamartin is the bistro by Sacha Hormaechea, whose lazy-tortilla and lasana de boletus are reference dishes for half the country's modern.
Signature: Tortilla vaga, Atun con caviar, Lasana de boletus
Order: The tortilla vaga (lazy tortilla, undercooked and topped with caviar) and the lasana de boletus.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead; tables of two are easier than four. The dining room is intimate, the chef circulates between courses.