Spanish€€€chamberiMon-Fri 13:30-16:00 and 20:30-23:30; Sat 13:30-16:00; Sun closed
Sacha in Madrid's Chamartin is the bistro by Sacha Hormaechea, whose lazy-tortilla and lasana de boletus are reference dishes for half the country's modern.
Signature: Tortilla vaga, Atun con caviar, Lasana de boletus
Order: The tortilla vaga (lazy tortilla, undercooked and topped with caviar) and the lasana de boletus.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead; tables of two are easier than four. The dining room is intimate, the chef circulates between courses.
Madrileno Taberna€€chuecaMon-Thu and Sun 13:00-16:30 and 19:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-16:30 and 19:30-01:00
La Carmencita on Calle Libertad in Madrid's Chueca has run the 1854 taberna under Carlos Zamora since 2014, recovering the original recipes and pouring.
Signature: Cocido madrileno, Croquetas, Tortilla de patatas
Order: The Thursday cocido madrileno, the croquetas de jamon, and a vermut de grifo before lunch.
Tip: Cocido on Thursdays only. Book a week ahead. The terrace on Calle Libertad seats eight; the inside dining room is wood-panelled.
Spanish€€lavapiesSun-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00
El Sur in Madrid's Lavapies has cooked the steak tartare table-side, the croquetas and the pulpo a la gallega since the 1980s. Priced at €€.
Signature: Steak tartare, Pulpo a la gallega, Croquetas
Order: The steak tartare prepared on the trolley and the pulpo a la gallega. A bottle of Mencia.
Tip: Book a week ahead for weekend dinners; tables of four are easier than two. Lunch menu del dia runs 18 euros weekdays.
Cocido Madrileno Specialist€€la-latinaMon-Tue 11:00-17:00; Wed-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun closed
Malacatin off Plaza de la Cebada in Madrid's La Latina has cooked the cocido madrileno in clay pots since 1895. Kitchen leans cocido madrileno specialist.
Signature: Cocido madrileno, Vino de Pitarra, Callos
Order: The cocido madrileno on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday lunch. A jug of Vino de Pitarra at room temperature.
Tip: Cocido served at lunch only, three days a week. Book five days ahead; cash strongly preferred at the bar.
Spanish€centroDaily 11:00-24:00
Casa Mingo on Paseo de la Florida in Madrid is the Asturian sidreria since 1888, serving roast chicken and natural cider poured from height.
Signature: Pollo asado, Sidra natural, Chorizo a la sidra
Order: A whole roast chicken (12 euros) and a bottle of sidra natural poured from arm's length.
Tip: Walk-in only; arrive before 13:30 or after 22:00 to skip the queue. Pollo and a bottle of sidra for 18 euros per person.
Castilian Asador€€€la-latinaMon-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-16:00
Posada de la Villa on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina has roasted Castilian cordero in a wood-fired oven since 1642, with the cocido madrileno and callos.
Signature: Cordero asado, Cocido madrileno, Callos a la madrilena
Order: The cordero asado roasted in the wood oven and the cocido madrileno (three vuelcos).
Tip: Book a week ahead for weekend lunch. Cordero orders must be placed when reserving; the lamb is roasted to order.