Sala de Despiece on Calle Ponzano in Madrid's Chamberi runs the room like a butcher's counter: stainless steel benches, white tiles and the meat carved in front of you since 2013.
Signature dishes: Steak tartare, Lomo en manteca, Tuetano asado
Must order: The lomo en manteca (pork loin in lard) and the bone marrow roasted with capers. Glass of Mencia by the glass.
Tip: Walk-in only; arrive before 13:30 for lunch or 20:30 for dinner. The bar stools are the seats locals want.
Address: Calle de Ponzano 11, 28003 Madrid
Sacha in Madrid's Chamartin is the bistro by Sacha Hormaechea, whose lazy-tortilla and lasana de boletus are reference dishes for half the country's modern Spanish kitchens.
Signature: Tortilla vaga, Atun con caviar, Lasana de boletus
Order: The tortilla vaga (lazy tortilla, undercooked and topped with caviar) and the lasana de boletus.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead; tables of two are easier than four. The dining room is intimate, the chef circulates between courses.
Sacha in Madrid's Chamartin is the bistro by Sacha Hormaechea, whose lazy-tortilla and lasana de boletus are reference dishes for half the country's modern Spanish kitchens.
Signature: Tortilla vaga, Atun con caviar, Lasana de boletus
Order: The tortilla vaga (lazy tortilla, undercooked and topped with caviar) and the lasana de boletus.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead; tables of two are easier than four. The dining room is intimate, the chef circulates between courses.
La Carmencita on Calle Libertad in Madrid's Chueca has run the 1854 taberna under Carlos Zamora since 2014, recovering the original recipes and pouring vermut from the wood barrel out front.
Signature: Cocido madrileno, Croquetas, Tortilla de patatas
Order: The Thursday cocido madrileno, the croquetas de jamon, and a vermut de grifo before lunch.
Tip: Cocido on Thursdays only. Book a week ahead. The terrace on Calle Libertad seats eight; the inside dining room is wood-panelled.
El Sur in Madrid's Lavapies has cooked the steak tartare table-side, the croquetas and the pulpo a la gallega since the 1980s. The room is wood-panelled and the menu runs the Spanish canon.
Signature: Steak tartare, Pulpo a la gallega, Croquetas
Order: The steak tartare prepared on the trolley and the pulpo a la gallega. A bottle of Mencia.
Tip: Book a week ahead for weekend dinners; tables of four are easier than two. Lunch menu del dia runs 18 euros weekdays.
Malacatin off Plaza de la Cebada in Madrid's La Latina has cooked the cocido madrileno in clay pots since 1895. The Vino de Pitarra (house red from clay amphora) is served by the jug.
Signature: Cocido madrileno, Vino de Pitarra, Callos
Order: The cocido madrileno on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday lunch. A jug of Vino de Pitarra at room temperature.
Tip: Cocido served at lunch only, three days a week. Book five days ahead; cash strongly preferred at the bar.
Casa Mingo on Paseo de la Florida in Madrid is the Asturian sidreria since 1888, serving roast chicken and natural cider poured from height, next to Goya's San Antonio chapel.
Signature: Pollo asado, Sidra natural, Chorizo a la sidra
Order: A whole roast chicken (12 euros) and a bottle of sidra natural poured from arm's length.
Tip: Walk-in only; arrive before 13:30 or after 22:00 to skip the queue. Pollo and a bottle of sidra for 18 euros per person.
El Sobrino del Padre in Madrid's Centro serves lechazo (suckling lamb) from the wood oven, with the Castilian roast canon running through cordero, cochinillo and tostones de sopa de ajo.
Signature: Lechazo asado, Sopa de ajo, Patatas a lo pobre
Order: The lechazo asado (1/4 portion serves one) and the sopa de ajo. A glass of Ribera del Duero crianza.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend lunch. Lechazo orders must be placed when reserving; lamb is slow-roasted overnight.
