Cera 23 in Barcelona's Raval is the locals' modern-Catalan room: the volcano black rice arrives at the table flaming, the tuna tartare is the back-up order.
Signature dishes: Volcano black rice, Tuna tartare
Must order: The volcano black rice for two; the tuna tartare to start.
Tip: Closed Sunday; the early sitting at 20:00 walks in easier than 22:00.
Address: Carrer de la Cera 23, 08001 Barcelona
Els Tres Tombs in Barcelona's Sant Antoni is the canonical neighbourhood vermouth-and-tapas counter, named for the Sant Antoni Three Kings procession.
Signature: House vermouth, Patatas bravas
Order: Vermouth on tap with bravas; tortilla espanyola as the next round.
Tip: Open weekday breakfasts and Sunday vermouth lunchtime; cash easier than card.
Fabrica Moritz in Barcelona's Sant Antoni is the Jean-Nouvel-restored brewery-brasserie with house Moritz on tap and a 35-strong tapas list.
Signature: House Moritz pours, Catalan tapas board
Order: The signature Moritz Epidor and a tapas board for two.
Tip: Open 09:00-01:00 daily; the basement bar takes walk-ins on busy nights.
Ramen-Ya Hiro in Barcelona's Eixample is the locals' tonkotsu counter where the pork broth simmers 12 hours and the queue starts forming at 13:30.
Signature: Tonkotsu ramen, Gyoza
Order: The tonkotsu ramen with chashu pork and a side of gyoza.
Tip: No reservations; queue forms before 13:30 for the lunch turn. Closed Monday all day.
The Fish and Chips Shop in Barcelona's Eixample is the British-import counter with beer-battered cod, chunky chips and tartare sauce on the side.
Signature: Beer-battered cod, Chip shop chips
Order: Beer-battered cod with mushy peas and a pint of London Pride.
Tip: Open daily lunch and dinner; the takeaway window is faster than the dining room.
Ikibana in Barcelona's Born is the loud Brazil-Japan room on Passeig de Picasso: sushi, sashimi and tropical cocktails in a dark-lit dining loft.
Signature: Ikibana roll, Tuna tataki
Order: The Ikibana signature roll and a tuna tataki to share.
Tip: Open daily lunch and dinner; book the bar over the table on busy nights.
El Nacional in Barcelona's Eixample is the Passeig de Gracia food hall: four kitchens around a single bar, all Spanish, all open midday to 01:00.
Signature: Iberian ham, Octopus tapas
Order: Galician octopus from La Llotja and a 3-meat platter at La Paradeta.
Tip: Walk-in for the bar, book the table; open 12:00-01:00 daily.
