Vago on Rua das Gaivotas in Santos is a Japanese-kissa-inspired listening bar in a converted semi-basement, tube amps, horn speakers and a vinyl-only programme paired with natural wine and snacks.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday 19:00 to 02:00; closed Sunday and Monday. The room is small and the music is the focus; conversation stays low between cuts.
Address: Rua das Gaivotas 11A, 1200-163 Lisboa, Lisbon
A Tabacaria on Rua de São Paulo is the old tobacconist turned cocktail tasca in Cais do Sodré, tile facade and wooden counters intact, with a short list of well-made classics and a late-night room.
Tip: Walk-in only; the room is narrow, the back bar is the late seat. Open daily from 15:00 to 02:00, weekends to 03:00. Order the Old Fashioned or whichever the bartender suggests.
O Bom O Mau e O Vilão on Rua do Alecrim is the labyrinth cocktail bar named for the Sergio Leone western, several rooms of sofas, low lamps and a weekly jazz and blues live programme over a long list of drinks.
Tip: Open daily from 19:00 to 02:00, weekends to 03:00. The back rooms are the conversation seats; live jazz Wednesday and Thursday nights, DJ sets weekends.
MusicBox on Rua Nova do Carvalho is the vaulted-arch club under the Pink Street in Cais do Sodré, programming live concerts and DJ sets across rock, indie, electronic and urban music six nights a week.
Tip: Doors Monday to Saturday from 23:00 to 06:00; the Jameson Urban Routes festival lands here every autumn. Cais do Sodré station is one block; the line forms before the live set.
A Ginjinha on Largo de São Domingos has poured ginja sour-cherry liquor from a single counter since 1910, the Espinheira family bar that gave the city its standing-up shot tradition by Rossio station.
Tip: One pour, one euro fifty; ask for it com or sem (with or without the cherry). Open every day from 09:00 to midnight; queues are part of the ritual.
Ginjinha Sem Rival on Rua das Portas de Santo Antão has poured ginja and Eduardino aniseed liquor since 1890, a tile-fronted standing counter on the old theatre walk between Rossio and the Coliseu.
Tip: Two house pours: Ginjinha (cherry) and Eduardino (anise). The bar is two metres wide; drink at the counter or take it onto the pavement. Open from 08:00 daily.
A Tabacaria on Rua de São Paulo is the old tobacconist turned cocktail tasca in Cais do Sodré, tile facade and wooden counters intact, with a short list of well-made classics and a late-night room.
Tip: Walk-in only; the room is narrow, the back bar is the late seat. Open daily from 15:00 to 02:00, weekends to 03:00. Order the Old Fashioned or whichever the bartender suggests.
O Bom O Mau e O Vilão on Rua do Alecrim is the labyrinth cocktail bar named for the Sergio Leone western, several rooms of sofas, low lamps and a weekly jazz and blues live programme over a long list of drinks.
Tip: Open daily from 19:00 to 02:00, weekends to 03:00. The back rooms are the conversation seats; live jazz Wednesday and Thursday nights, DJ sets weekends.
Lux Frágil on Avenida Infante Dom Henrique by Santa Apolónia is Lisbon's reference techno and house club, opened in 1998 by Manuel Reis with three floors plus a rooftop bar over the Tagus.
Tip: Doors Thursday to Saturday from 23:30 to around 06:00. Arrive after 02:00 for the headline set on the basement dancefloor; the rooftop is the cool-down room.
MusicBox on Rua Nova do Carvalho is the vaulted-arch club under the Pink Street in Cais do Sodré, programming live concerts and DJ sets across rock, indie, electronic and urban music six nights a week.
Tip: Doors Monday to Saturday from 23:00 to 06:00; the Jameson Urban Routes festival lands here every autumn. Cais do Sodré station is one block; the line forms before the live set.