Pastel de bacalhau
Photo: Michael Gaylard from Horsham, UK · CC BY 4.0

Pastel de bacalhau is Lisbon's salt-cod croquette: a fluffy egg-and-potato cod mixture deep-fried into oval-shape patties, eaten warm with a glass of port at every counter and tasca.

The pastel de bacalhau (called bolinho de bacalhau in the north) emerged in the 19th century as cod-fishing fleets from the Algarve and Newfoundland brought endless dry salt cod to Portuguese kitchens. The Lisbon two-spoon shaping method (moulded between soup spoons into a three-rib oval) became canonical by 1900. It is now sold at every tasca, mercado counter and beach kiosk. Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau on Rua Augusta launched its stuffed-with-Serra-cheese variant in 2015; Solar dos Presuntos plates the classical version with vinho verde. A midmorning or aperitivo snack, never a main.

4 editor picks for Pastel de bacalhau in Lisbon, ranked by editorial score. All Lisbon signature dishes · Pastel de bacalhau across every city.

Bistro 100 Maneiras ★ 4.7

€€€Bistro ContemporaryChiado

Bistro 100 Maneiras on Largo da Trindade in Chiado: the casual sister of 100 Maneiras in Bairro Alto, opened by Ljubomir Stanisic with late hours and a noted.

OrderThe tartare bar selection, two cuts compared side by side.

Solar dos Presuntos ★ 4.5

€€€Portuguese SeafoodRestauradores

Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.

OrderThe plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.

Tasca do Jaime ★ 4.3

€Portuguese TascaGraca

Tasca do Jaime in Lisbon's Graca: a tiled tasca with a daily blackboard, iscas com elas and pataniscas at workers' prices, cash only, no bookings.

OrderIscas com elas, marinated pork liver with boiled potatoes.

Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau ★ 3.6

€Street foodBaixa

Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau on Lisbon's Rua Augusta: a tourist counter for cod cakes filled with melted Serra da Estrela, served with port.

OrderPastel de bacalhau filled with Serra da Estrela cheese

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Pastel de bacalhau makes more sense with someone from Lisbon explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

Taste Pastel de bacalhau with a local in Lisbon

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