Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau ★ 3.6
Casa Portuguesa on Lisbon's Rua Augusta: a 4-euro cod cake stuffed with melted Serra da Estrela, paired with a glass of port, snack-sized on a wood plate.
Try: Pastel de bacalhau with Serra cheese
Pastel de bacalhau is Lisbon's salt-cod croquette: a fluffy egg-and-potato cod mixture deep-fried into oval-shape patties, eaten warm with a glass of port at every counter and tasca.
Where to eat it: 4 restaurants across 1 city.
The pastel de bacalhau (called bolinho de bacalhau in the north) emerged in the 19th century as cod-fishing fleets from the Algarve and Newfoundland brought endless dry salt cod to Portuguese kitchens. The Lisbon two-spoon shaping method (moulded between soup spoons into a three-rib oval) became canonical by 1900. It is now sold at every tasca, mercado counter and beach kiosk. Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau on Rua Augusta launched its stuffed-with-Serra-cheese variant in 2015; Solar dos Presuntos plates the classical version with vinho verde. A midmorning or aperitivo snack, never a main.
Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Fish, Dairy
Tip from the editors. The cod must be dry salt cod, soaked a full 24 hours; fresh cod is wrong texture and unsalted. The two-spoon shape is essential; a scoop loses the profile.
Casa Portuguesa on Lisbon's Rua Augusta: a 4-euro cod cake stuffed with melted Serra da Estrela, paired with a glass of port, snack-sized on a wood plate.
Try: Pastel de bacalhau with Serra cheese
Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.
Signature: Arroz de marisco, Roast kid, Bacalhau a Braz
Order: The plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.
Tasca do Jaime is tile-walled graca tasca with a chalkboard menu, iscas com elas and pataniscas at workers' prices a block from the miradouro.
Why locals love it: Tile-walled Graca tasca with a chalkboard menu, iscas com elas and pataniscas at workers' prices a block from the Miradouro.
Tip: Cash only. Closed Sundays. Often a queue at 13:00. Sit at the back room for the longer-running fado on the speakers.
Bistro 100 Maneiras on Largo da Trindade in Chiado: the casual sister of 100 Maneiras in Bairro Alto, opened by Ljubomir Stanisic with late hours and a noted.
Signature: Steak tartare, Roasted bone marrow, Russian-style salad
Order: The tartare bar selection, two cuts compared side by side.
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