History

The pastel de bacalhau (called bolinho de bacalhau in the north) emerged in the 19th century as cod-fishing fleets from the Algarve and Newfoundland brought endless dry salt cod to Portuguese kitchens. The Lisbon two-spoon shaping method (moulded between soup spoons into a three-rib oval) became canonical by 1900. It is now sold at every tasca, mercado counter and beach kiosk. Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau on Rua Augusta launched its stuffed-with-Serra-cheese variant in 2015; Solar dos Presuntos plates the classical version with vinho verde. A midmorning or aperitivo snack, never a main.

Common allergens: Gluten, Egg, Fish, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 16Hands-on 45 minTotal 24 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g dry salt cod (bacalhau)
  • 500g floury potatoes (Maris Piper or King Edward)
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 60ml extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 small bunch parsley, finely chopped
  • 3 large eggs (beaten)
  • Pinch of grated nutmeg
  • Salt and white pepper
  • 1L sunflower oil for deep frying
  • Lemon wedges, to serve

Method

  1. Soak the salt cod in cold water for 24 hours, changing the water 4 to 5 times to remove the salt. The cod should taste pleasantly salty, not aggressive, after soaking.
  2. Drain. Poach the cod in fresh barely-simmering water for 8 to 10 minutes until the flesh flakes; do not boil hard or it turns rubbery.
  3. Lift out; cool on a board. Remove every skin and bone; flake the cod into a bowl by hand into thin shreds (the texture should be like wool, not paste).
  4. Boil the potatoes whole in salted water until very tender. Drain; peel; pass through a potato ricer into a wide bowl. Let the rice steam off for 5 minutes.
  5. Heat the olive oil in a small pan over medium-low. Sweat the onion 6 to 8 minutes until soft; add the garlic; cook 1 minute more. Cool slightly.
  6. Combine the riced potato, flaked cod, softened onion-and-garlic mix, parsley and nutmeg in a large bowl. Mix gently with two forks; do not mash; the mixture should be coarse, not a paste.
  7. Stir in the beaten eggs to bind. Taste; correct with salt and white pepper.
  8. Heat the sunflower oil to 170°C / 340°F in a deep heavy pan.
  9. Shape each pastel with two soup spoons: scoop a heaped tablespoon of mixture in one spoon; press and shape with the second spoon, transferring back and forth three times to form the characteristic three-ribbed oval (this is the Lisbon two-spoon shape).
  10. Slide each oval into the hot oil; fry 4 to 5 at a time for 3 to 4 minutes until deep golden and crisp. Lift onto kitchen paper with a slotted spoon.
  11. Serve warm with lemon wedges and a glass of port, vinho verde or a chilled lager.

Tip from the editors. The cod must be dry salt cod, soaked a full 24 hours; fresh cod is wrong texture and unsalted. The two-spoon shape is essential; a scoop loses the profile.

Where to eat pastel de bacalhau

Pastel de bacalhau in Lisbon

Solar dos Presuntos ★ 4.5

Portuguese Seafood€€€RestauradoresMon-Sat 12:00-15:30, 18:30-23:00

Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.

Signature: Arroz de marisco, Roast kid, Bacalhau a Braz

Order: The plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.

Tasca do Jaime ★ 4.0

Portuguese€€GracaDaily 09:00-20:00

Tasca do Jaime is tile-walled graca tasca with a chalkboard menu, iscas com elas and pataniscas at workers' prices a block from the miradouro.

Why locals love it: Tile-walled Graca tasca with a chalkboard menu, iscas com elas and pataniscas at workers' prices a block from the Miradouro.

Tip: Cash only. Closed Sundays. Often a queue at 13:00. Sit at the back room for the longer-running fado on the speakers.

Bistro 100 Maneiras ★ 4.7

Bistro Contemporary€€€chiadoMon-Sat 19:30-01:00, closed Sunday

Bistro 100 Maneiras on Largo da Trindade in Chiado: the casual sister of 100 Maneiras in Bairro Alto, opened by Ljubomir Stanisic with late hours and a noted.

Signature: Steak tartare, Roasted bone marrow, Russian-style salad

Order: The tartare bar selection, two cuts compared side by side.

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