Portuguese seafood€€Zona VelhaDaily 11:00-23:00
Gavião Novo grills fish off the Funchal coast on Rua de Santa Maria, the old town street where the day boat rather than the menu decides dinner.
Signature: Grilled fish of the day, Atlantic seafood
Order: Fish from the Funchal coast, grilled whole off the day boat.
Tip: Book ahead for dinner. The dining room is small and the pavement tables on Rua de Santa Maria go first.
Portuguese€€Zona VelhaDaily 11:00-23:00
Taberna Ruel works a Madeiran and Portuguese kitchen on Rua de Santa Maria, named for chef Ricardo Ruel and built on island produce and modern technique.
Signature: Madeiran daily plates, Portuguese wine list
Order: A Madeiran plate from the daily list, with a bottle from the Portuguese cellar.
Tip: It runs straight through from 11:00 to 23:00 every day, so it catches both the late lunch and the early dinner.
Contemporary Portuguese€€Zona VelhaDaily 12:30-15:00 and 18:30-23:00
Lá ao Fundo sits at the fortress end of the Funchal old town, where chef-owner Jaime Cruz pulls Portuguese, African and Indian threads into one short menu.
Signature: Author dishes, Vegetarian plates
Order: The daily author dish, rewritten each morning around the market delivery.
Tip: Lunch and dinner run as two separate services with the kitchen shut between them. Book the terrace.
Traditional Portuguese€€Zona VelhaMon-Sun 11:00-22:45
Casa Portuguesa lines its Funchal old town rooms with hand-painted cobalt tiles and cooks a traditional Portuguese carte, with fado by prior reservation.
Signature: Traditional Portuguese carte, Bacalhau
Order: A traditional Portuguese main, booked with the fado sitting if you want music.
Tip: Fado nights need reserving in advance rather than asking for on the door.
Portuguese€€SéMon-Sat 11:45-15:30 and 18:00-22:30, closed Sunday
Restaurante dos Combatentes is a plain central Funchal dining room with a garden, cooking regional Madeiran plates at everyday weekday prices.
Signature: Regional Madeiran plates, Bacalhau
Order: The regional plate of the day, which is what the room is built around.
Tip: Lunch is the busy service with local office trade. Both services run Saturday too, and it is closed Sunday.
Seafood€€Ponta da CruzTue-Sun 10:00-23:30, closed Monday
Doca do Cavacas is built on the rock above the Ponta da Cruz sea pools in Funchal, serving grilled fish, shellfish and espetada by the water.
Signature: Grilled fish, Shellfish, Espetada
Order: Grilled fish of the day, with the natural pools below the terrace.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Lunch on the terrace catches the sun over Praia Formosa.