Velevetka ★ 4.3
Why locals love it: Twenty seats in a Długa cellar; the most committed Kashubian menu in the city is hiding under the main pedestrian tourist street.
Tip: Order the Kashubian fish soup first; the loaf-bread mains come slowly.
Restauracja Filharmonia in Gdańsk sits on Ołowianka Island opposite the Old Town, with chef-Kashubian Marcin Szlagowski cooking his region: herring tartare, mustard soup, golce dumplings with roast goose.
Why locals love it: On Ołowianka Island opposite the Old Town, reached by a footbridge most visitors skip; the most committed Kashubian kitchen in the centre.
Tip: Cross from Długie Pobrzeże; the dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.
Address: ul. Ołowianka 1, 80-751 Gdańsk
Why locals love it: Twenty seats in a Długa cellar; the most committed Kashubian menu in the city is hiding under the main pedestrian tourist street.
Tip: Order the Kashubian fish soup first; the loaf-bread mains come slowly.
Why locals love it: Tucked two doors from Nieczapla on Wajdeloty, the Wrzeszcz cafe locals walk past Drukarnia for; rotating European roasters, brew bar tight.
Tip: Closed Sunday; weekday mornings are the calmest window for a slow filter.
Why locals love it: Basement rum bar near the Green Gate, fifteen seats and the biggest tiki menu in northern Poland; signed only by a small plaque at street level.
Tip: Arrive before 21:00 or expect to stand at the bar.
Why locals love it: On Grobla III, a quiet block off Długie Pobrzeże; the city's most-named cinnamon-roll counter for those who know to walk one block north.
Tip: Plain (sauté) cinnamon rolls sell first; cream-filled by mid-afternoon.
Why locals love it: Gdańsk's only proper natural-wine bar hides on Grobla I behind St Mary's, five tables and a six-bottle list locals keep to themselves.
Tip: Arrive at 17:00 as the cafe flips to wine-bar mode; the orange-wine flight goes by 20:00.
Why locals love it: Twenty seats behind a red door on Piwna; the kitchen runs a single fish and a single goose for the night, both locals-only.
Tip: Book a 19:00 slot; walk-ups have to wait at the small bar.