Surinamese€de-pijp
Spang Makandra has been Amsterdam's reference Surinamese counter since 1978, rolling roti, ladling saoto soep, almost nothing on the menu costing over 15 euros.
Signature: Roti kip, Bami goreng, Moksi meti
Order: Roti kip; ask for medium spice and the kouseband bean stew as a side.
Tip: Lunch only at the upstairs tables; takeaway counter for everything else.
Thai€nieuwmarkt-chinatown
Thai Snackbar Bird on Zeedijk has run an Amsterdam Chinatown Thai counter for over two decades, snug, no-frills, the city's most reliable bowl of pad krapow.
Signature: Pad krapow, Green curry, Tom yum noodle
Order: Pad krapow gai with a fried egg on top.
Tip: Walk-in only; turnover is fast, the booth seats clear quickly.
Pizzeria€€jordaan
La Perla in Amsterdam's Jordaan has run a wood-fired Roman-Neapolitan crossover since 2009, the bar across the alley taking overflow and people-watching.
Signature: Margherita, Diavola, Marinara
Order: Margherita with the salty house-cured anchovies on the side.
Tip: Walk-up only at the bar opposite; the dining room takes phone bookings.
Italian€€centrum
Caldi e Freddi on Spuistraat is the Amsterdam Italian deli-trattoria you walk past once and book the next week, a tight room with fresh pasta and a wine list to match.
Signature: Fresh pasta of the day, Antipasti spread
Order: Whichever pasta is fresh that day; ask the counter to name the ragù.
Tip: Lunch is a counter scene; dinner is small-room booking.
Chinese€€nieuwmarkt-chinatown
Peijie on Zeedijk is Amsterdam Chinatown's Chongqing hotpot room, the broth red with chilli oil and sichuan peppercorn, with raw platters carried to your table.
Signature: Chongqing hotpot, Lamb skewers
Order: Half-spicy mandarin pot with sliced lamb, lotus root and beef tendon for the table.
Tip: Order the mid-heat unless you mean it. Book ahead Friday and Saturday.
Surinamese€de-pijp
Warung Mini in De Pijp serves Amsterdam's signature saoto soep, a clear Surinamese chicken broth crowned with crisp potato, beansprouts and a hard-boiled egg.
Signature: Saoto soep, Roti kip, Bara
Order: Saoto soep with extra sambal on the side; bara to start.
Tip: Counter service, closed Mondays. Lunchtime queue forms quickly.