Valencia's old fishing village by the port: tiled facades, grilled sardines, salt-cod esgarraet and a rising brunch scene.
Casa Montana on Carrer de Josep Benlliure in Valencia's Cabanyal fishing quarter has poured wine from oak barrels and served tapas since 1836, with a 1,500-bottle wine cellar.
Signature: Esgarraet, Anchoas del Cantabrico, Atun en aceite
Order: The esgarraet (salt-cod with roasted red peppers) and a glass of Utiel-Requena bobal from the barrel.
Tip: Reserve ahead, especially for weekends. Closed Sunday. The wine list runs deep into local Valencian small producers.
Bodega Anyora on Carrer Vicent Gallart in Valencia's Canyamelar maritime quarter runs a restored 1937 wine room with a tight Valencian wines list and a daily tapas chalkboard.
Signature: Tapas valencianas, Esgarraet, Embutidos
Order: The plate of esgarraet with pickled-and-preserved vermut snacks.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The bar fills with locals from 20:30 onward.
Doux-Amer in Cabanyal pours 100% Arabica specialty coffee with a tight brunch menu on Calle Progreso. Crepes, waffles and smoothies in a small fisherman-quarter room with a second branch in Ciutat Vella.
Order: Pancake stack with brunch sides
La Fabrica de Hielo in Valencia's Cabanyal is a former ice-factory converted into a 600-cap cultural centre, with live music, exhibitions and DJ sets every weekend.
Tip: Check the cultural calendar. Concerts run year-round, with outdoor summer events.