Valencia's medieval old town: cathedral, La Lonja silk exchange, the Mercado Central, and the bar-lined Plaza de la Virgen.
La Riua on Carrer del Mar in Valencia's old town has run a family-tavern rice kitchen since 1978, now in the third generation, with a dozen paellas on the carte.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Fideua
Order: The paella valenciana or the arroz a banda; the house Utiel-Requena tinto is honest.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The dining room fills with locals by 14:00; reserve ahead.
Central Bar inside the Mercado Central in Valencia is Ricard Camarena's market-counter project, serving bocadillos and tapas built from the market stalls metres away.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Carrillera iberica, Croquetas
Order: The bocadillo de calamares with squid from the market fishmongers, plus a vermut from the barrel.
Tip: Open during market hours, Mon to Sat 07:30 to 15:00. Stand at the counter or grab one of the few stools.
Tasca Angel on Carrer de la Purissima in Valencia's Mercat quarter has grilled sardinas a la plancha to order at the counter since 1946, on a charcoal grill metres away.
Signature: Sardinas a la plancha, Anchoas, Atun
Order: Half a dozen grilled sardines off the plancha with a cana, plus the anchoas.
Tip: Open lunchtime only (12:00 to 16:00); arrive before 13:30 to find a seat. Closed Sunday.
Navarro on Carrer de l'Arquebisbe Mayoral in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a long-running family rice kitchen, with a tiled dining room and a strong arroz al horno tradition.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz al horno, Fideua
Order: The arroz al horno with chickpeas, blood sausage and pork, ordered as a half portion for two.
Tip: Reserve 24 hours ahead for paella. The menu del dia at lunch is one of the best in the centre.
El Encuentro on Carrer de Sant Vicent Martir in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a neighbourhood arroceria with a strong local following, eight rice variations and a daily menu del dia.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Fideua
Order: The paella valenciana for two with the canonical rabbit and chicken, ordered ahead.
Tip: Closed Sunday evening and all day Monday. Reserve weekend lunch a few days ahead.
El Rall on Carrer dels Tundidors in Valencia's old town has cooked paellas to order in a tiled medieval-corner dining room since 1980, with one of the wider arroz cartes in the centre.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Fideua, Arroz negro
Order: The paella valenciana for two cooked over wood, or the fideua a banda with seafood.
Tip: Reserve 24 hours ahead for paella. The dining room is small but has an outdoor terrace in good weather.
Tinto Fino Ultramarino on Carrer de la Corretgeria pours a Spanish-and-Italian list with counter tapas in a snug Ciutat Vella room. Wednesday acoustic sessions start at 20:00; wine and small plates run at fair prices through the week.
Signature pour: Spanish reds by the glass at fair prices
Wine focus: Spanish and Italian by-the-glass
Food: Counter tapas and small plates
Vincci Palace Rooftop on Carrer de la Pau in Valencia is the hotel's terrace bar with old-town rooftop views, a sundown cocktail carte and a small tapas program.
Tip: Open daily May to October. Hotel guests get priority; book non-guests through the website.