Valencia's medieval old town: cathedral, La Lonja silk exchange, the Mercado Central, and the bar-lined Plaza de la Virgen.
Order The paella valenciana or the arroz a banda; the house Utiel-Requena tinto is honest.
La Riua on Carrer del Mar in Valencia's old town has run a family-tavern rice kitchen since 1978, now in the third generation, with a dozen paellas.
Order The bocadillo de calamares with squid from the market fishmongers, plus a vermut from the barrel.
Central Bar inside the Mercado Central in Valencia is Ricard Camarena's market-counter project, serving bocadillos and tapas built from the market stalls.
Order Half a dozen grilled sardines off the plancha with a cana, plus the anchoas.
Tasca Angel on Carrer de la Purissima in Valencia's Mercat quarter has grilled sardinas a la plancha to order at the counter since 1946, on a charcoal grill.
Order The arroz al horno with chickpeas, blood sausage and pork, ordered as a half portion for two.
Navarro on Carrer de l'Arquebisbe Mayoral in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a long-running family rice kitchen, with a tiled dining room and a strong arroz al.
Order The paella valenciana for two with the canonical rabbit and chicken, ordered ahead.
El Encuentro on Carrer de Sant Vicent Martir in Valencia's Ciutat Vella is a neighbourhood arroceria with a strong local following, eight rice variations.
Order The paella valenciana for two cooked over wood, or the fideua a banda with seafood.
El Rall on Carrer dels Tundidors in Valencia's old town has cooked paellas to order in a tiled medieval-corner dining room since 1980, with one of the wider.
Tinto Fino Ultramarino on Carrer de la Corretgeria pours a Spanish-and-Italian list with counter tapas in a snug Ciutat Vella room. Booking recommended.
Vincci Palace Rooftop on Carrer de la Pau in Valencia is the hotel's terrace bar with old-town rooftop views, a sundown cocktail carte and a small tapas program.
