The town hall quarter between Plaza del Ayuntamiento and Estacion del Norte: shopping streets, Llisa Negra, Cafe Madrid.
Llisa Negra on Carrer de Pasqual i Genis in Valencia is Quique Dacosta's product-driven fire-only kitchen, with no gas stoves and every dish cooked over wood and embers.
Signature: Arroz seco, Pescado a la brasa, Carnes a la brasa
Order: The seasonal fish from the Valencia fish market grilled over olive wood, plus the arroz seco.
Tip: Reserve through the website at least 10 days ahead for dinner. The Krug embassy table seats four for the prestige tasting.
Vuelve Carolina on Carrer del Correus in Valencia's centre is Quique Dacosta's modern tapas room near the town hall, with a long carte of tapas, arroces and a youthful bar.
Signature: Tapas modernas, Croquetas, Arroz
Order: The croquetas of jamon iberico and the steak tartar; a glass of natural Valencia white.
Tip: Reserve through the website; the room fills with lunchtime office crowds and evening tourists. Good vermut hour.
Casa Mundo on Carrer de Don Joan d'Austria near central Valencia is a 1953 institution founded by Valencia CF top scorer Edmundo 'Mundo' Suarez, famous for tapas and its bocadillo de calamares.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Tapas valencianas, Vermut
Order: The bocadillo de calamares with a cana or vermut from the barrel.
Tip: Reserve ahead for weekends. Now in the third generation; the dining room doubles as a small Valencia CF and Mundo memorabilia museum.
Ateneo Sky Bar on Placa de l'Ajuntament in Valencia is a rooftop bar atop the Ateneo Mercantil building, with city-skyline views and a cocktail and tapas carte.
Tip: Reserve through the website for sundown. The terrace is small; arrive by 19:30.