The west-of-old-town quarter around Bombas Gens and the Botanical Garden: Ricard Camarena's two-star room, art galleries and a quiet menu del dia scene.
Bar Ricardo on Carrer del Doctor Zamenhof in Valencia's Extramurs is a 1947 neighbourhood bar with a long tapas counter, a worker's lunch crowd and a strong esgarraet plate.
Signature: Esgarraet, Sepia a la plancha, Bocadillo de calamares
Order: The esgarraet (salt-cod and roasted red pepper salad) and the sepia a la plancha with garlic.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The counter is packed by 13:30; arrive earlier for a stool.
Rausell on Carrer d'Angel Guimera in Valencia's Extramurs is a family-run rice and seafood kitchen since 1948, now in its third generation, with a daily-changing chalkboard of fresh fish from the lonja.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz a banda, Pescaito frito
Order: The pescaito frito plate of the day plus a half-portion of arroz a banda.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The lunchtime menu del dia is one of the best in the area.
Vinorte on Calle de Cervantes is the Extramurs wine bar pouring a Mediterranean-and-Spanish list. By-the-glass rotations, small Mediterranean plates and cheese boards in a tight modern room west of the centre.
Signature pour: Valencian by-the-glass list
Wine focus: Mediterranean and Spanish by-the-glass with natural-leaning bottles
Food: Mediterranean small plates and cheese boards
El Loco Club in Valencia's Extramurs is one of Spain's longest-running indie-rock-and-electronic clubs, programming live concerts and DJ sets in a 500-cap room since 1989.
Tip: Doors at 23:00 most nights. Check the concert calendar for live music.
16 Toneladas in Valencia's Extramurs is a 700-cap concert and live-music venue, programming Spanish indie, rock, hip-hop and international touring acts.
Tip: Check the concert calendar; tickets through the website. Doors at 21:00 most nights.
Deseo 54 on Carrer de Pepita in Valencia's Extramurs is the city's leading LGBTQ club, with drag shows, themed nights and an international house DJ programme.
Tip: Doors at 00:00 Fri and Sat. Drag shows Fri at 03:00.