Philadelphia's downtown grid between the rivers, with Rittenhouse Square as the green heart and Walnut, Chestnut and Market as the dining spines.
Vetri Cucina in Philadelphia is Marc Vetri's 1998 Spruce Street townhouse tasting menu, a Michelin-recognised Italian room with the spinach gnocchi that defined the city.
Signature: Spinach gnocchi with brown butter, Whole roasted baby goat
Order: Spinach gnocchi in brown butter and ricotta salata; the whole roasted baby goat for the table.
Tip: Book 60 days out on the venue's own site. The eight-seat counter is the room's quiet best seat.
Friday Saturday Sunday in Philadelphia is Chad and Hanna Williams's narrow Rittenhouse townhouse, James Beard Best New Restaurant 2019 and the city's most distinctive seasonal menu.
Signature: Mushroom soup, Foie gras toast
Order: The mushroom soup, with foie gras toast on the side. The dish that anchored their James Beard year.
Tip: The upstairs bar takes walk-ups. The wine list runs natural and the pours arrive faster than reservations.
Vernick Food & Drink in Philadelphia is Greg Vernick's James Beard Best Chef Mid-Atlantic 2017 Rittenhouse bi-level brownstone, with the avocado toast that defined the room.
Signature: Avocado toast, Wood-fire fish
Order: The avocado toast with chilli flake; whatever whole fish is on the wood fire that night.
Tip: The chef's counter on the second floor watches the open kitchen. Book it specifically when reserving.
Parc in Philadelphia is Stephen Starr's Rittenhouse Square French brasserie on 18th Street, a Parisian-cafe room that runs croissants by 08:00 and onion soup past 22:00.
Signature: Steak frites, Croque madame
Order: Steak frites with bearnaise; the croque madame at brunch; a half-bottle of Sancerre.
Tip: The outdoor sidewalk seats on 18th Street face Rittenhouse Square. Book them specifically in summer.
Barbuzzo in Philadelphia is Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran's 13th Street Mediterranean kitchen, open since 2010, anchored by wood-fired pizzas and the salted caramel budino.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Salted caramel budino
Order: The wood-fired pizza of the week; salted caramel budino for dessert, the dish that built its reputation.
Tip: The bar counter overlooking the open kitchen takes walk-ups. It is the room's quietest table on a Friday.
Pizzeria Vetri in Philadelphia is Marc Vetri's Neapolitan pizza room on Chancellor near Rittenhouse, with a wood-fired oven from Naples and the rotolo that travelled the country.
Signature: Margherita, Rotolo
Order: Margherita with buffalo mozzarella; the rotolo (rolled mortadella, ricotta and pistachio).
Tip: Walk in at 17:30 on a weeknight. The main rush starts at 18:30.
K'Far in Philadelphia is Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook's all-day Israeli bakery and cafe at 19th near Rittenhouse, the morning room before the Zahav night.
Signature: Borekas, Shakshuka
Order: A bourekas filled with feta and za'atar; shakshuka at brunch; the babka to take home.
Tip: Walk in for the bakery counter at 08:00 before the work crowd lands at 09:30. The pastries sell out by 11.
Barbuzzo in Philadelphia is Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran's 13th Street Mediterranean room since 2010, with wood-fired pizzas and the salted caramel budino that built the reputation.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Salted caramel budino
Order: Wood-fired pizza of the week; salted caramel budino, the dish locals order by name.
Tip: The bar counter overlooking the open kitchen takes walk-ups. Quietest table on a Friday night.
Pizzeria Vetri in Philadelphia is Marc Vetri's Neapolitan pizza room on Chancellor near Rittenhouse Square, with the wood-fired oven from Naples and the famous rotolo.
Signature: Margherita, Rotolo
Order: Margherita with buffalo mozzarella; the rotolo (mortadella, ricotta and pistachio rolled in dough).
Tip: Walk in at 17:30 on a weeknight. The main rush starts at 18:30.
K'Far in Philadelphia is Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook's all-day Israeli bakery and cafe at 19th near Rittenhouse, the morning sibling to Zahav's evening service.
Signature: Borekas, Shakshuka
Order: A bourekas filled with feta and za'atar; shakshuka at brunch; the babka to take home.
Tip: Walk in for the bakery counter at 08:00 before the work crowd lands at 09:30. Pastries sell out by 11.