Former working-class river neighbourhood north of the Ben Franklin Bridge, now the city's loudest dining laboratory: Suraya, Kalaya, Laser Wolf, Pizzeria Beddia.
Kalaya in Philadelphia is Chutatip 'Nok' Suntaranon's James Beard Best Chef Mid-Atlantic 2022 Southern Thai room in Fishtown, on Palmer Street since the move from Bella Vista.
Signature: Khua kling pork, Massaman curry
Order: The khua kling dry-fried pork with rice; the massaman curry; Nok's mother's coconut soup.
Tip: Book a week out on Resy. The 5pm seating clears quickest if you want a table without a wait.
Suraya in Philadelphia is the Fishtown Lebanese market, garden and restaurant on Frankford Avenue from Greg Root, Nicholas Kennedy and chef Roland Kassis, opened 2017.
Signature: Whole roasted fish, Lamb shawarma
Order: Whole roasted fish for the table, lamb shawarma platter, the labneh with shrak bread.
Tip: Brunch on the back garden patio in summer is the room's best seat. Saturday 10am books out the fastest.
Pizzeria Beddia in Philadelphia is Joe Beddia's Fishtown reincarnation of the Bon Appetit America's Best Pizza of 2015, with a hoagie room behind the dining room.
Signature: Margherita pizza, Hoagie
Order: The margherita with sungold cherry tomatoes; a salad of every herb in the kitchen.
Tip: The hoagie room books separately. Reserve it for groups of four to six who want lunch sandwiches.
Stock in Philadelphia is Tyler Akin's 18-seat Fishtown BYOB on Girard, a Southeast Asian counter with a pho stock that simmers 14 hours and a rotating khao soi.
Signature: Beef pho, Khao soi
Order: Beef pho with the side plate of herbs; khao soi if it appears; a roast pork banh mi at lunch.
Tip: BYOB. Bring a crisp Riesling or a Vietnamese-style lager. Cash and cards both work.
Pizzeria Beddia in Philadelphia is Joe Beddia's Fishtown reincarnation of the Bon Appetit 2015 America's Best Pizza, with a private hoagie room behind the dining room.
Signature: Margherita pizza, Hoagie
Order: Margherita with sungold tomatoes; a salad of every herb in the kitchen.
Tip: The hoagie room books separately. Reserve it for groups of four to six who want lunch sandwiches.
Stock in Philadelphia is Tyler Akin's 18-seat Fishtown BYOB on Girard, with a 14-hour pho stock and a rotating khao soi from a Zahav alum kitchen.
Signature: Beef pho, Khao soi
Order: Beef pho with the side plate of herbs; khao soi if it is on the board; a roast pork banh mi at lunch.
Tip: BYOB. Bring a crisp Riesling or a Vietnamese lager. Cash and cards both work.