The 18th-century port-adjacent quarter between Castelnuovo and the new harbour. Trattoria Piccolo Napoli and the city's newest evening market run here.
Piccolo Napoli on Piazzetta Mulino a Vento in Palermo's Borgo Vecchio quarter is a 70-year family seafood trattoria; the carte changes daily with what.
Signature: Spaghetti con bottarga, Pesce alla griglia, Crudi di mare
Order: Spaghetti con bottarga and whatever crudi arrived that morning.
Tip: Lunch only most days. Book one day ahead; the daily catch board is dictated verbally.
Trattoria Da Pino on Via dello Spezio in Palermo's Borgo Vecchio is a family-run seafood-driven room, daily-changing chalkboard carte dictated by the morning.
Signature: Caponata, Spaghetti con le sarde, Involtini di sarde
Order: Involtini di sarde and the spaghetti con le sarde, with a glass of Grillo.
Tip: Cash works fastest. Lunch is the value entry; book one day ahead for Sunday lunch.
Piccolo Napoli on Piazzetta Mulino a Vento in Palermo's Borgo Vecchio is a 70-year family seafood trattoria; daily carte dictated by the morning market.
Signature: Spaghetti con bottarga, Pesce alla griglia, Crudi di mare
Order: Spaghetti con bottarga and whatever crudi arrived that morning.
Tip: Lunch only most days. Book one day ahead; the catch board is dictated verbally.
Borgo Vecchio's night market on Piazzetta Mulino a Vento in Palermo fires charcoal braziers from 20:00 for grilled meat, panelle and frittole.
Try: Carne arrostita, panelle, frittole
Tip: Cash only. Peak hour is 23:00-02:00 on weekends; the grilled horse meat is a local order.
Bruno Ribadi Birrificio on Via Ammiraglio Rizzo in Palermo's Borgo Vecchio brews Belgian-style ales using Sicilian wheat and citrus from the Trapani-Marsala.
Tip: Closed Monday and Tuesday. The wheat beer with Sicilian lemon zest is the house signature.
Mercato di Borgo Vecchio between Castelnuovo and the new harbour in Palermo is the city's newest historic market; the night-market grills fire from 20:00.
Tip: Day market is quieter; night market is the show. Cash only at the night braziers; peak hour 23:00-02:00.
Borgo Vecchio's night market on Piazzetta Mulino a Vento in Palermo fires charcoal braziers from 20:00-04:00, the city's most reliable working-class.
Tip: Cash only. Peak hour 23:00-02:00; the grilled horse meat is the standard order.