Eat in Tenma and Tenjinbashi, Osaka

Teppan Sakaba Hiro

A Tenma teppan restaurant serving gluten-free okonomiyaki on request using rice-flour batter with nagaimo yam and pork belly; call ahead to confirm.

Order: ['Gluten-free okonomiyaki', 'Yakisoba teppan', 'Tsukimi okonomiyaki']

Winestand Perche

A standing natural wine bar in Tenma near Tenmabashi; sommelier Toshiya Kinoshita pours organic and biodynamic bottles from a compact daily list.

Wine focus: Natural, biodynamic

Order: ['Natural French rouge', 'Skin-contact white', 'House nibbles']

Tenjin Matsuri

One of Japan's three great festivals, Tenjin Matsuri fills the Tenma riverbank and canals with over 100 procession boats on July 25 while 3,000 street-food.

Tenma Izakaya Backstreets

Over 200 izakayas packed into the alleys behind Tenmangu Shrine; entered almost exclusively by local workers, largely unseen from Tenjinbashi-suji.

Why locals love it: The alleys are parallel to the main shopping arcade and one turn away; no tourist signage.