A single lantern-lit alley west of the Kamogawa, two metres wide, lined with izakaya, sushi counters and kaiseki rooms that grow kawayuka river decks May to September.
Tofu-kaiseki on a Kamogawa riverside terrace, hidden down a narrow Kiyamachi alley in a preserved Taisho-era townhouse just steps from Pontocho.
Signature: Tofu kaiseki, Yuba sashimi, Yu-dofu
Order: Eight-course tofu kaiseki with yuba sashimi and warmed soy-milk pots
Tip: Book a tatami room on the riverside for kawayuka decking from mid-May to September.
A Pontocho unagi room above the Kamogawa in Kyoto, founded 1916. Edomae-style grill-then-steam, with a kawayuka deck May to September. Priced at ¥¥¥.
Signature: Unaju, Shirayaki, Hamo in season
Order: Unaju with white-grilled shirayaki appetiser
Tip: Riverside deck seats need booking; mid-week 17:30 is the easiest landing slot.
A modern kappo on Pontocho serving 10-course kaiseki anchored by Maizuru seafood and Tamba wagyu. Counter seats face the river through sliding shoji.
Signature: Seafood kaiseki, Wagyu courses
Order: Premium kaiseki with seasonal seafood and wagyu
Tip: Riverside kawayuka deck active May to September; weekday lunch is cheaper at ¥4,400.
Murata's casual-counter spinoff on Kiyamachi, opened for Kikunoi's 60th anniversary. Two stars, easier reservations than Honten, river views in season.
Signature: Kaiseki, Counter service
A tofu-and-yuba making workshop at Tousuiro in Kyoto. Press soybean curd into fresh yuba sheets, fold them into a tofu kaiseki lunch on the riverside terrace.