Kikunoi Honten 3 ★ ★ 4.9
The defining three-Michelin-star kaiseki room in Kyoto. Third-generation Yoshihiro Murata runs Kikunoi Honten, a 1912 ryotei below Kodaiji. Priced at ¥¥¥¥.
Signature: Kaiseki, Hamo, Ayu
The temple-and-pottery quarter rising toward Kiyomizu-dera. Yudofu rooms cluster around Nanzen-ji and stone-paved Sannenzaka turns into a wagashi crawl by 11am.
The defining three-Michelin-star kaiseki room in Kyoto. Third-generation Yoshihiro Murata runs Kikunoi Honten, a 1912 ryotei below Kodaiji. Priced at ¥¥¥¥.
Signature: Kaiseki, Hamo, Ayu
Hitoshi Ishihara opened Mizai in a corner of Maruyama Park, Kyoto, after years at Kitcho Arashiyama. One nightly seating, all guests served in sync.
Signature: Kaiseki omakase
Edomae sushi inside the Four Seasons Kyoto, in Higashiyama. Eight counter seats and a ten-course omakase from the team that opened the original Sushi Wakon.
Signature: Edomae sushi omakase
A mid-range Edomae sushi counter in Higashiyama, Kyoto. The chef trained in Tsukiji; lunch sets sit around 3,500 yen, and the saba-zushi is exemplary.
Signature: Edomae sushi set, Saba-zushi
Order: Tokujo nigiri lunch with side of saba bo-zushi
Tip: Lunch is best value; book a counter seat to watch the rice-vinegar pressing.
The minimalist white-tile espresso bar that put Kyoto on the global coffee-tourism map. Slayer-pulled lattes and the Hokkaido Slayer milk programme.
Signature drink: Kyoto Latte
A matcha cafe on Ninenzaka in a renovated 80-year machiya in Higashiyama, Kyoto. The Uji-matcha tiramisu is the citywide signature dessert order.
Signature drink: Uji matcha tiramisu
The Higashiyama outpost of the national melon-pan chain in Kyoto, a quick-walk default off Yasui-dori. Cream pan and the always-fresh melon-pan shelf.
Worth the queue: Custard cream pan
% Arabica's roastery cafe in Higashiyama, Kyoto, on the Yasaka Pagoda slope. Their global beans roasted on-site for the city's 23 sister bars.
Sources from: Hawaii Kona, El Salvador, Ethiopia
How they serve: Espresso, Whole bean retail, Wholesale
A Kyoho-era (1716-1736) stall and counter beside Maruyama Park in Higashiyama, Kyoto. Open 10:30-20:00. At Higashiyama-ku. Booking recommended.
Try: Ebi-imo and bo-dara
Kanshundo's wagashi-making workshop in Higashiyama, Kyoto, a 160-year wagashi maker. Shape three seasonal nerikiri sweets and a tea-ceremony pour.
Camellia's tea-ceremony class in a Higashiyama machiya in Kyoto. 45-minute English-led workshop with whisking matcha, paired with a single seasonal wagashi.