Eat in kamigyo-nishijin, Kyoto

Toseian ★ 4.2

A Nishijin yudofu room set in a former silk-warehouse machiya, opened in the 1970s. Quiet, courtyard-view tatami; locals know the Matsu Gozen set.

Signature: Yudofu, Yuba, Matsu Gozen set

Order: Matsu Gozen set: yudofu, yuba-sashimi and seasonal Kyo-yasai

Tip: Closed Mondays and Thursdays. Two-minute walk from the Omiya Nakauri bus stop.

Wife and Husband Coffee ★ 4.4

A Showa-styled hand-drip roaster in north Kyoto, married-couple run with house-roasted beans. Picnic baskets to take to nearby Kamogawa banks.

Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Guatemala

How they serve: Hand-drip, Whole bean retail

Tenjin-san Flea Market at Kitano Tenmangu ★ 4.3

Monthly market at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine on the 25th in Kyoto. Pickle and wagashi stalls outnumber the antiques; the food side runs from the eastern torii.

Wife and Husband ★ 4.4

A Showa-styled coffee roastery in Kita, Kyoto, run by a married couple. Hand-drip beans, homemade cake and picnic-basket loans for the nearby Kamogawa banks.

Why locals love it: A husband-and-wife Showa-era roastery in north Kyoto that lends out picnic blankets and baskets for the Kamogawa banks.

Tip: Picnic-basket programme runs at lunch. Best on a sunny Saturday morning.

Toseian Yudofu Nishijin ★ 4.3

A yudofu room set in a former silk-warehouse machiya in Nishijin, Kyoto. The Matsu Gozen set is half the price of Nanzen-ji's better-known yudofu houses.

Why locals love it: A yudofu room set in a former silk warehouse in Nishijin, two minutes from a regular bus stop and overlooked by Kyoto's temple-tour crowd.

Tip: Closed Mondays and Thursdays. Walk in from the back garden path.