Once squat and counter-culture, now the densest food borough in the city: Markthalle Neun on Tuesdays, Turkish bakeries on Kottbusser Damm, Burgermeister under the U-Bahn.
Billy Wagner and Micha Schaefer's Nobelhart und Schmutzig in Berlin's Kreuzberg cooks a 10-course tasting from ingredients sourced inside Brandenburg.
Signature: Brandenburg carrot, Spreewald pike-perch
Order: The full 10-course tasting; no a la carte. Carrot, pike-perch and goose top the list.
Tip: Bookings open three months ahead at 09:00 Berlin time. Closed Sunday and Monday, weekday lunch is rare.
Tim Raue's two-Michelin-star room near Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin Kreuzberg cooks a chef-led Asian-French tasting; the Peking duck is the city's defining.
Signature: Wasabi langoustine, Peking duck
Order: The Peking duck, the wasabi langoustine and whichever pork-belly course is on; Raue's signatures stay on the carte.
Tip: Lunch tasting at €178 is the easier entry vs the €248 dinner. Book four weeks ahead at minimum.
Sebastian Frank's two-star Horvath on Berlin's Paul-Lincke-Ufer cooks a vegetable-led Austrian tasting; the canal-side terrace runs the summer.
Signature: Carinthian dumplings, Goat tartare
Order: The Carinthian-style cheese dumplings and whichever goat course is on; both stay on the tasting year-round.
Tip: The terrace at lunch in summer is the room's best seating. Bookings open eight weeks out at 10:00 Berlin time.
Maximilian Strohe's one-star Tulus Lotrek in Berlin Kreuzberg cooks a French-rooted modern-European tasting in a former corner kneipe with 20 covers and one.
Signature: Foie gras with rhubarb, Whole-roast pigeon
Order: The seven-course tasting at €165; the foie gras and the pigeon course are the signatures.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Bookings open three months ahead via the website and burn the first day.
Long March Canteen in Berlin Kreuzberg is the city's dim-sum reference, with hand-folded dumplings from an open kitchen and a long bar pouring tsingtao.
Signature: Dim sum platter, Mapo tofu
Order: The dim sum platter for two, mapo tofu, and the steamed-fish special of the night.
Tip: No reservations. Arrive before 19:00 on weekdays or expect a 45-minute wait at the bar.
Long March Canteen on Berlin's Wrangelstrasse cooks the city's reference dim sum with hand-folded dumplings from an open kitchen; the bar runs natural wine.
Signature: Dim sum platter, Mapo tofu
Order: The dim sum platter for two, the mapo tofu, and the steamed-fish special of the night.
Tip: No reservations. Arrive before 19:00 weekdays or wait 45 minutes at the bar.
Marktlokal inside Berlin's Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg has cooked seasonal regional plates from market produce for over a century; chef Bjoern Persson runs.
Signature: Seasonal fish, Wood-fired flatbread
Order: The fish of the day from the in-house counter; the wood-fired flatbread with seasonal toppings.
Tip: Open during market hours plus Thursday Street Food Thursday evenings. Walk-up only; arrive before 19:00 Thursdays or wait at the bar.
Henne Alt-Berliner Wirtshaus on Berlin's Leuschnerdamm has cooked one dish since 1907: a milk-fed roast half-chicken with kraut salad and bread.
Signature: Half a roast chicken, Kraut salad
Order: The half-chicken with the kraut salad and rye bread; the only choice on the menu.
Tip: Closed Monday. Bookings two weeks ahead by phone; ask for the original 1907 dining room when booking.
Max und Moritz on Berlin's Oranienstrasse has cooked Prussian tavern classics since 1902 in the original ceramic-tiled dining room; the Klopse and rouladen.
Signature: Koenigsberger Klopse, Beef rouladen
Order: The Koenigsberger Klopse with caper-cream sauce; the beef rouladen with red cabbage in winter.
Tip: Closed Monday lunch. The original 1902 dining room is the seating to book; phone two weeks out.
Five Elephant in Berlin Kreuzberg has roasted its own beans and pulled the city's reference filter coffee since 2010; the New York-style cheesecake.
Signature drink: Filter coffee (single-origin)
Tip: The Reichenberger flagship runs all-day.
Bonanza Coffee Roasters in Berlin Kreuzberg has helped define the city's third-wave coffee scene since 2006; the Adalbertstrasse roastery-cafe pulls.
Signature drink: Espresso
Tip: No Wi-Fi by policy; the cafe is for drinking, not working. Ask the barista for a flat white.
Fjord Coffee Roasters in Berlin Kreuzberg roasts its own beans at the Schoenleinstrasse cafe and runs an all-day brunch carte; the filter coffee and toasted.
Signature drink: Filter coffee
Tip: The Sunday brunch from 10:00 books out by mid-morning; the filter coffee runs until 17:00 daily.
Concierge Coffee on Berlin's Paul-Lincke-Ufer pulls espresso from a tiny 8-cover counter built into a hotel lobby; the single-origin filter list runs four.
Signature drink: Single-origin espresso
Tip: 8-cover counter only, no laptop tables. The single-origin filter is the order on a quiet weekday morning.
Westberlin on Berlin's Friedrichstrasse near Checkpoint Charlie runs a Bonanza-bean coffee room with a magazine-shop wall; the filter side and tartines.
Signature drink: Filter coffee
Tip: The magazine shop is the second draw; the filter from 08:00 weekdays runs the morning commuters.
Alfredo Sironi's bakery counter inside Berlin's Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg bakes Italian sourdough breads; the pane casareccio and focaccia run.
Tip: Closed Sunday with the market. Friday and Saturday from 09:00 are the busy windows; loaves sell out by 14:00.
Worth the queue: Pane casareccio
Albatross Bakery on Graefestrasse in Kreuzberg bakes naturally leavened sourdough loaves and pastries from a small open kitchen; the country loaf.
Tip: Open seven days 08:00-18:00. The kouign-amann sells out within an hour of opening on weekends.
Worth the queue: Sourdough country loaf
Le Bon on Berlin's Boppstrasse in Kreuzberg bakes French-style viennoiserie at the level of any Paris boulangerie; the croissant aux amandes and the pain au.
Tip: Closed Monday. The Saturday morning queue runs 20 minutes deep from 09:00; arrive before 09:00 for the full case.
Worth the queue: Croissant aux amandes
Five Elephant has roasted in Berlin Kreuzberg since 2010 with a direct-trade origin program; the Reichenberger flagship cafe is the consumer-facing window.
Tip: The bean retail wall has the full single-origin range; the cheesecake remains the standing second order.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Kenya, Brazil
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
Bonanza Coffee Roasters started in Berlin Kreuzberg in 2006 and now roasts at Oranienplatz with cafes at Adalbertstrasse and Chausseestrasse.
Tip: The bean subscription with two rotating origins per month is the home-coffee deal; pick up at the cafe.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Colombia, Honduras
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail, Subscription
Fjord Coffee Roasters has roasted at the Schoenleinstrasse cafe in Berlin Kreuzberg since 2013; the small-batch Scandinavian-style roast runs three origins.
Tip: The Sunday brunch from 10:00 books out by mid-morning; the filter coffee runs until 17:00 daily.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Burundi, El Salvador
How they serve: Espresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
Concierge Coffee on Berlin's Paul-Lincke-Ufer is a multi-roaster bar serving four rotating roasters per week (Five Elephant, Bonanza, Onyx, Square Mile).
Tip: Multi-roaster format means the bean rotates every 48 hours; check the chalkboard for the day's pull.
Sources from: Various third-wave roasters (multi-roaster)
How they serve: Espresso, Filter
Schwarze Traube on Muskauer Strasse in Kreuzberg has run a no-menu bespoke cocktail room since 2012; tell the bartender a spirit and a profile and they build.
Signature drink: Bartender's choice cocktail
Food: None
Tip: No menu. Tell the bartender a spirit and a taste profile. Ring the bell, reservations by email; small room, 18 covers.
Mustafas Gemuese Kebap on Mehringdamm 33 in Kreuzberg serves Berlin's most-photographed doener, layered with grilled aubergine and courgette alongside.
Try: Doener kebab with grilled vegetables
Curry 36 at Mehringdamm 36 has served currywurst in the heart of Kreuzberg since 1980. Open daily 09:00-05:00. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.
Try: Currywurst
Imren Grill on Boppstrasse in Kreuzberg cuts the lamb from a vertical spit that has been turning since 1995. Open daily 11:00-03:00. At Boppstrasse 10.
Try: Doener kebab
Street Food Thursday at Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg runs every Thursday evening since 2013 with 20-plus vendors: Thai dumplings, Korean bao.
Try: International street food
Maroush on Adalbertstrasse has wrapped Kreuzberg's benchmark chicken shawarma since the 1990s, toasted in a flatbread with tahini, tomato and pickled chili.
Try: Chicken shawarma sandwich
Heidenpeters brews inside Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg and pours through a taproom window in the same hall. At Eisenbahnstrasse 42-43. Booking recommended.
Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg, restored from an 1891 iron-and-glass market hall, anchors Berlin's food scene with Friday and Saturday produce markets.
The Marheineke Markthalle at Bergmannkiez in Kreuzberg is a covered organic market with 40 stalls including Greek specialities, a Biobackhaus.
Curry 36 on Mehringdamm has served Berlin's most consistent currywurst since 1980 at prices that have barely shifted relative to inflation. At Mehringdamm 36.
Try: Currywurst with pommes
Maroush on Adalbertstrasse in Kreuzberg has wrapped Berlin's benchmark chicken shawarma in flatbread since the 1990s. At Adalbertstr. 93. Booking recommended.
Try: Chicken shawarma sandwich
Cafe Mugrabi at the edge of Goerlitzer Park in Kreuzberg cooks an Israeli-inspired Levant brunch from locally roasted coffee to warm mezze plates.
Order: The hummus plate with green chili; the shakshuka with labneh and za'atar-roasted tomatoes.
Albatross Bakery on Berlin's Graefestrasse in Kreuzberg runs a counter-style bakery brunch from 08:00 daily; the unconventional savoury croissants.
Order: The pumpkin-cream stuffed croissant.
Mustafas Gemuese Kebap on Mehringdamm keeps its grill running past midnight on weekends. Located in Kreuzberg. At Mehringdamm 33. Booking recommended.
Try: Doener kebab with grilled vegetables
Curry 36 on Mehringdamm is Berlin's most dependable late-night Imbiss, open until 05:00 every day. Located in Kreuzberg. Booking recommended.
Try: Currywurst
Imren Grill on Boppstrasse stays open until 03:00 every night and is Berlin's go-to late-night doener after the clubs. Located in Kreuzberg.
Try: Doener kebab and duerüm wrap
Henne Alt-Berliner Wirtshaus in Kreuzberg runs its single dish, a half-roasted milk-fed chicken with kraut salad and rye bread, through the evening.
Try: Half a milk-fed roast chicken with kraut salad
Yorckschloesschen has run on Yorckstrasse for over 120 years and books jazz, blues, soul, swing and funk Wednesday through Saturday in a smoky old-Berlin.
Tip: Live music Wednesday through Saturday; the kitchen runs until 22:00 weekdays and later on event nights. Cash at the door.
Lido reopened in 2006 in a 1950s former cinema on the corner of Cuvry and Schlesische Strasse, booking indie, rock and pop concerts followed by DJ sets near.
Tip: Standing room only; the floor is flat so arrive early for sightlines. After-show club nights run until early morning.
Privatclub fills the old Schlesisches-Tor post office basement with newcomer bookings, alternative DJ nights and small touring shows on Skalitzer Strasse.
Tip: Capacity is small (around 300); buy ahead for buzz acts. The bar runs cash plus card.
Solar sits on the 16th and 17th floors of an anonymous Kreuzberg tower near Anhalter Bahnhof; a glass lift on the outside delivers guests to a panoramic.
Tip: The free lift is the entry; queue at the ground-floor entrance after 21:00. Cocktails skew classic; the restaurant upstairs takes OpenTable.
Schwarze Traube opened in 2012 on Wrangelstrasse with no menu and no obvious sign; bartenders Atalay Aktas and Yalcin Celik build daily-changing drinks.
Tip: Ring the bell; if full nobody enters. No menu, brief the bartender on what you like. Cash plus card.
Wuergeengel near Kottbusser Tor occupies a former pharmacy with a glass-tiled ceiling and apothecary shelves; the bar runs classic-cocktail service alongside.
Tip: No reservations; arrive before 21:00 on weekends. The connected restaurant Gorgonzola Club next door takes overflow.
Galander on Grossbeerenstrasse occupies an 1889 corner pub that Dominik Galander reopened in 2009 in 1920s style, with leather stools at a dark wooden.
Tip: Walk-up only; arrive before 21:00 on Friday and Saturday. Bartender will build to your taste; mention sweet or dry.
Moebel Olfe occupies a former furniture store at Kottbusser Tor with raw concrete walls and rotating queer theme nights: Tuesday women-leaning.
Tip: Doors 18:00; the room fills by 22:00. Beer is cheap, the staircase to the bar narrow; no card at the door.
Roses on Oranienstrasse runs next door to SO36 with hot-pink fake-fur walls and a cocktail list under 10 euros; an institution of the Kreuzberg queer scene.
Tip: Doors 22:00 most nights, 02:00 on Mondays after the SO36 parties. Cash; small room, fills fast.
Unkompress on Fichtestrasse plays full vinyl albums on a high-fidelity rig across ambient, balearic, jazz-funk and downtempo, paired with natural wine.
Tip: Music goes album by album; arrive between sides. Natural wine list rotates weekly.
Bei Schlawinchen on Schoenleinstrasse has run 24 hours a day since 1978, with bicycles and toy dolls bolted to the ceiling, two-euro beers, a foosball table.
Tip: Open literally always; arrive at 04:00 to see the room at full strength. Cash only; smoking inside.
Trinkteufel on Naunynstrasse runs as Kreuzberg's hardcore-and-metal dive: loud guitars, cheap pours, a foosball table that's always busy, and a clientele.
Tip: Doors at 15:00, no closing time; cash only. The kicker table is the centre of gravity.