Tamales oaxaquenos are the banana-leaf-wrapped tamales filled with mole negro, mole amarillo or rajas, fatter and flatter than central-Mexican corn-husk tamales.

Tamales oaxaquenos are wrapped in banana leaves rather than corn husks, making them fatter and flatter than central-Mexican tamales. The fillings (mole negro with chicken, mole amarillo with pork, rajas with quesillo) are pre-Hispanic in form. The morning counters at Mercado Sanchez Pascuas run them from 06:00; many families make 200 at a time for Day of Dead and Christmas tamaladas.

Where to eat Tamales oaxaquenos in Oaxaca

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Make it at home

Serves 163 hr 30 minIntermediate

Ingredients

  • 1kg masa harina
  • 450g lard, beaten until fluffy
  • 1L warm chicken stock
  • 2 tsp sea salt
  • 16 banana leaves, softened over a flame
  • 500g cooked chicken, shredded
  • 500ml mole negro (or mole amarillo)
  • Kitchen twine

Method

  1. Whip the lard with salt until pale and fluffy, 5 minutes.
  2. Beat in the masa harina and stock alternately until the dough holds a soft peak; a small ball should float in cold water when ready.
  3. Pass each banana leaf over an open flame to soften and lay flat.
  4. Spread 4 tbsp masa on each leaf, leaving a border.
  5. Add a tbsp of shredded chicken and 2 tbsp mole in the centre.
  6. Fold the leaf around the filling and tie with kitchen twine.
  7. Stand the tamales upright in a steamer pot with water in the base; steam 90 minutes.
  8. Test one: if the masa pulls cleanly from the leaf, they are done.

Editor tip. The masa-floating-in-water test is the only reliable way to check the dough's lard ratio.

Common allergens: Wheat (banana leaf is gluten-free), Dairy (rajas filling).