History
Tamales oaxaquenos are wrapped in banana leaves rather than corn husks, making them fatter and flatter than central-Mexican tamales. The fillings (mole negro with chicken, mole amarillo with pork, rajas with quesillo) are pre-Hispanic in form. The morning counters at Mercado Sanchez Pascuas run them from 06:00; many families make 200 at a time for Day of Dead and Christmas tamaladas.
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Common allergens: Wheat (banana leaf is gluten-free), Dairy (rajas filling)
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 1kg masa harina
- 450g lard, beaten until fluffy
- 1L warm chicken stock
- 2 tsp sea salt
- 16 banana leaves, softened over a flame
- 500g cooked chicken, shredded
- 500ml mole negro (or mole amarillo)
- Kitchen twine
Method
- Whip the lard with salt until pale and fluffy, 5 minutes.
- Beat in the masa harina and stock alternately until the dough holds a soft peak; a small ball should float in cold water when ready.
- Pass each banana leaf over an open flame to soften and lay flat.
- Spread 4 tbsp masa on each leaf, leaving a border.
- Add a tbsp of shredded chicken and 2 tbsp mole in the centre.
- Fold the leaf around the filling and tie with kitchen twine.
- Stand the tamales upright in a steamer pot with water in the base; steam 90 minutes.
- Test one: if the masa pulls cleanly from the leaf, they are done.
Tip from the editors. The masa-floating-in-water test is the only reliable way to check the dough's lard ratio.
Where to eat tamales oaxaquenos
Tamales oaxaquenos in Oaxaca
Mercado Sanchez Pascuas ★ 4.4
Mercado Sanchez Pascuas on Porfirio Diaz is Centro's locals-only morning market, with tejate, tamales and comedor counters from 06:00 in three small halls.
Why locals goNorthwest corner of Centro, well off the tourist trail; locals-only morning market open from 06:00 with three small halls and three comedor counters.
TipArrive 07:00-08:30 for the freshest tamales; the comedor counters (Yolis, Lupita) close around 15:00.
Itanoni ★ 4.6
Itanoni in Reforma serves the Oaxacan breakfast canon from 07:00 daily: memelas with frijol, tetelas with hierba santa and a chocolate or atole de granillo.
OrderMemelas with frijol and quesillo, atole
Las Quince Letras ★ 4.4
Las Quince Letras is Celia Florian's women-owned mole room since 1992 near Santo Domingo, where the mole negro runs more than thirty ingredients.
Book1 week ahead
TipOrder the duo-de-moles or trio-de-moles to see the kitchen's range across three sauces in one sitting.
Restaurante Catedral ★ 4.2
Restaurante Catedral one block from the cathedral runs a generous courtyard with live music and a seven-moles menu (negro, chichilo, amarillo, verde).
Book1 week ahead
TipTuesdays closed; the moles oaxaquenos platter for two is the standard ask. Live music after 8pm most nights.
La Olla ★ 4.3
La Olla on Reforma serves the long Oaxacan breakfast (huevos divorciados, chilaquiles verdes, mole-and-egg plates) in the converted-house dining rooms.
OrderHuevos divorciados with mole verde and mole amarillo
More cities are in research. Want tamales oaxaquenos covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.