Mexican-Indian-East African fusion$$juarez
Masala y Maiz in Mexico City is chefs Norma Listman and Saqib Keval's one-Michelin-star Juarez room on Marsella, the kitchen that bridges Mexican, Indian and East African pantries.
Signature: Garam masala mole, Plantain dosa, Tasting menu
Order: The garam masala mole; the plantain dosa to start.
Tip: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays; the room is small and books out a week ahead via Resy.
Mexican-Mediterranean$$$condesa
Lardo in Mexico City is Elena Reygadas' all-day Condesa room on Agustin Melgar, the Mediterranean wood-fired sister of Rosetta opened in 2015 with a bar-dining vibe.
Signature: Wood-fired flatbreads, Brunch plates, Hand-rolled pasta
Order: The wood-fired flatbread of the day; the brunch eggs with Roma garden tomatoes.
Tip: Open all day from breakfast; the corner-window two-tops fill first. Walks-ins land best at 11:00 weekdays.
Traditional Mexican$$centro-historico
El Cardenal in Mexico City is the Briz family's 1969 Centro Historico room on Palma, the traditional Mexican breakfast institution where hot chocolate is frothed tableside with raw-milk nata.
Signature: Hot chocolate, Pan de nata, Chiles en nogada
Order: The hot chocolate with pan de nata; chiles en nogada when in season July to September.
Tip: Open 08:00 to 18:00; the Centro location seats four floors and still queues by 09:30 on Sunday morning.
Traditional Mexican$$centro-historico
Cafe de Tacuba in Mexico City is the Mollinedo family's 1912 Centro Historico room on Tacuba, the colonial-palace dining hall that defines traditional Mexican capital cooking.
Signature: Enchiladas de mole, Tamales, Chicken in mole poblano
Order: The enchiladas de mole; the tamales served with hot chocolate.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to 23:00. The Sunday strolling student trio singing Aztec songs starts around 13:00; mariachi runs evenings.
Mexican steakhouse$$$polanco
Loma Linda in Mexico City is the 1924 Mexican steakhouse that claims first-charcoal-grill credit in the capital, with the Plaza Carso branch on Lago Zurich carrying the Polanco service since 2011 with a rooftop terrace facing the Museo Soumaya.
Signature: Cabreria, Arrachera, Cortes de Angus
Order: The cabreria; the molcajete-grilled arrachera with handmade tortillas.
Tip: Plaza Carso location runs daily 13:00 to 23:30; the original Avenida Insurgentes Sur branch is the older sister.
French bistro$$$juarez
Havre 77 in Mexico City is Eduardo Lalo Garcia's classic French bistro in Juarez, the Maximo Bistrot sister room that pours natural wine and serves a plateau de fruits de mer on weekends.
Signature: Steak frites, Coq au vin, Plateau de fruits de mer
Order: The steak frites; the plateau de fruits de mer to share, weekend lunch only.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Walks-ins land easier than booking; the wine list runs deep on Loire natural pours.