Omoide Yokocho in Tokyo's Shinjuku is the post-war yakitori alley north of the west exit. 70 stalls of grilled chicken, offal skewers, ramen and highballs.
Tip: Bring cash. Most stalls seat six to eight; arrive by 17:30 for the best counter seats before the after-work rush.
Address: 1-2 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0023
Ameya-Yokocho in Tokyo's Ueno is the 500-metre street under the JR tracks, 400 vendors of takoyaki, kebabs, dried seafood, post-war black-market origin.
Try: Takoyaki, okonomiyaki, kebab, dried fish
Tip: Saturday afternoons are jammed; weekday mornings stay calm. The takoyaki stalls and Turkish kebab counters are the lunch picks.
Nakamise-dori in Tokyo's Asakusa is the 250-metre snack street between Kaminarimon gate and Senso-ji temple. Ningyo-yaki, age-manju, senbei since the 17th century.
Try: Ningyo-yaki, agemanju, senbei rice crackers
Tip: The ningyo-yaki at Kimura-ya Honten and senbei at Tokiwa-do are the historic picks. Eat on the spot, do not walk-and-eat.
Harmonica Yokocho in Tokyo's Kichijoji is the post-war alley behind the JR north exit. 100-plus tiny stalls of yakitori, oden, standing sushi and craft beer.
Try: Yakitori, oden, standing sushi, motsu nikomi
Tip: Iseya yakitori main shop is around the corner; the alley itself is the better stand-up dinner crawl after 19:00.
Tsukiji Outer Market in Tokyo's Chuo ward keeps 400 standing-counter food stalls running each morning. Tamagoyaki sticks, uni-don bowls, grilled-scallop skewers.
Try: Tamagoyaki sticks, uni-don, grilled scallops
Tip: Yamacho's tamagoyaki sticks and the standing-sushi counters at Sushizanmai are the canonical sequence; arrive before 09:00.
