Yoramu in Nakagyo in Kyoto is Yoram Ofer's eight-seat aged-sake counter, koshu flights from across Japan, small Israeli-Japanese plates, a hidden alley find.
Signature pour: Three-koshu tasting flight
Wine focus: Aged sake (koshu) and small-batch nihonshu
Food: Small Japanese plates
Tip: Reserve by phone; the koshu flight changes weekly. Closed Sunday through Tuesday.
Komorebino in Gion's Hanami Kaikan pours 200 carefully chosen natural wines from Japan, France and Italy with a list rotating to 24 seasonal Japanese terms.
Signature pour: House-curated Japanese pet-nat or Loire Chenin by the glass
Wine focus: 200 natural wines from Japan, France and Italy rotating to 24 solar terms
Food: Small plates pairing with seasonal Japanese ingredients
Tip: Counter seating with the sommelier is the only way to taste the off-list Japanese bottles; reserve a week ahead.