Trattoria€€ghiaiaDaily 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30
Osteria dei Servi works the old Ghiaia market square in Parma with Vacca Rossa beef, cavallo pesto and vintage-furnished rooms open every day of the week.
Signature: Vacca Rossa beef, Tortelli d'erbetta, Cavallo pesto
Order: Vacca Rossa beef, the red-cow breed behind the original Parmigiano.
Tip: Open seven days including Sunday dinner, and vegetarians eat better here than the meat-heavy menu suggests; ask for the veganisable risottos.
Japanese€€oltretorrenteDaily 12:00-14:30, 19:00-22:30
IRamen ladles the broth bowls Parma's traditional kitchens never touch, with vegan ramen options listed on HappyCow, across from the Parco Ducale side.
Signature: Ramen, Gyoza, Edamame
Order: The house ramen; vegans get their own broth and toppings.
Tip: The most dependable non-Italian kitchen in a city that has few, and one of the only places in Parma where a vegan gets a hot main after 21:00.
Trattoria€€centro-storicoTue-Thu, Sun 12:00-15:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-15:00, 19:00-22:00; Mon closed
Antica Osteria della Ghiaia fries torta fritta by the basket near Parma's old market and hosts a tortellata every 23 June for the feast of San Giovanni.
Signature: Torta fritta, Tortelli d'erbetta, Tortellata di San Giovanni
Order: Torta fritta with salumi; add the tortelli before the baskets win.
Tip: Dinner runs Friday and Saturday only; every other day it is a lunch house. Book June 23rd weeks ahead for the tortellata di San Giovanni.
British gastropub€san-lazzaroMon-Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 17:00-24:00
La Corriera Stravagante pours craft beer beside gourmet sandwiches like the Completo, spalla cotta with gorgonzola, on Parma's east side until 02:00.
Signature: Il Completo sandwich, Gourmet panini, Craft beer
Order: The Completo: spalla cotta, pickled onions, gorgonzola and mayo.
Tip: Kitchen and taps run to 02:00 six nights a week, which makes it the eastern district's answer to a late dinner as much as a pub.
Trattoria€€TorrechiaraTue-Sun 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30; Mon 19:30-22:30
Taverna del Castello sits below Torrechiara's frescoed castle south of Parma, feeding prosciutto-country walkers on the village's stone lane before the climb.
Signature: Prosciutto di Parma, Tortelli d'erbetta, Torta fritta
Order: Prosciutto di Parma aged in the hills you can see from the door.
Tip: Park in the small lot below the village and walk up. Pair lunch with the Castello di Torrechiara, the best-preserved castle in the province.
Trattoria€€Sala BaganzaTue-Sun 12:00-14:30, 19:00-22:30; Mon closed
I Pifferi occupies an old post house from the era of Duchess Marie Louise at Sala Baganza near Parma, on the edge of the Boschi di Carrega woods.
Signature: Nonna Lina's herb tortelli, Timballo al tartufo, Salumi with torta fritta
Order: Nonna Lina's herb tortelli with melted butter and Parmigiano; in summer eat them in the shaded garden.
Tip: Combine it with the wine museum in Sala Baganza's Rocca and a walk in the Boschi di Carrega, the old ducal hunting forest.