Pandolce genovese is Genoa's Christmas sweet bread, studded with raisins, pine nuts, candied citron and fennel seed and scented with orange-flower water, sold tall or low in the city's bakeries.
Legend says Andrea Doria launched a contest among Genoese pastry cooks in the 16th century for a sweet that would keep on long voyages. The tall pandolce is the older, naturally leavened form; the low version came in the late 1800s with chemical raising agents. At Christmas the youngest at the table sets a sprig of olive or bay on top, the eldest cuts the first slice, and two pieces are kept, one for a poor visitor at the door and one for the feast of San Biagio.
4 editor picks for Pandolce genovese in Genoa, ranked by editorial score. All Genoa signature dishes · Pandolce genovese across every city.
€€€€BakeryCentro Storico
Romeo Viganotti has made chocolate in Genoa since 1866, selling chocolates and pralines at Vico dei Castagna and running booked workshop visits.
TipGuided workshop visits last one hour and cost €15 for adults, booked by WhatsApp, according to the shop's Experience page.
€€€€BakeryCentro Storico
Focaccia e Dintorni in Genoa bakes focaccia from 07:00 to 20:00 every day, with farinata, polpettone genovese and pandolce, in an old district oven.
TipA second shop trades at Via San Lorenzo 91r; the Canneto il Curto counter draws a queue of regulars every day, according to Gambero Rosso.
€€€€BakeryCentro Storico
Antico Forno della Casana has baked focaccia in a narrow Genoa alley since 2004, with farinata, vegetable pies, pesto and fresh pasta at the counter.
TipThe shop also sells Recco-style cheese focaccia according to its own page; the hours are Monday to Saturday with an afternoon break.
€€€€BakeryDe Ferrari Brignole
Pasticceria Tagliafico on Via Galata in Genoa has made pastries since 1890, and Gambero Rosso lists its pandolce, fruit tartlets and cream cakes.
TipIn July and August the shop closes on Sunday and opens on Monday from 07:30 to 19:30, according to its business listing.
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