Farinata is a thin disc of chickpea flour, water, salt and olive oil baked in a wide shallow pan in a wood oven until crisp at the edges and soft inside, served warm in wedges with black pepper in Genoa.
Chickpeas are widely held to have reached Genoese cooking through the medieval republic's trade with the Arab world. A decree of the Republic regulated the oil used for farinata in the 15th century, and a popular story credits its invention to galley crews who found their chickpea flour and oil soaked in seawater after the Genoese victory over Pisa at Meloria in 1284. It is also baked in Tuscany and in Buenos Aires and Montevideo, where it is called fainá.
Il Genovese on Via Galata in Genoa opened in 1912 as a farinata shop called Raggio and keeps its wood oven; the menu lists pansoti, frisceü and stoccafisso.
OrderPansoti with walnut sauce, or the stoccafisso accomodato alla genovese.
TipPhone bookings are taken from 10:00 on +39 010 869 2937; takeaway and delivery run daily from 11:00 to 14:00 and 18:00 to 22:30.
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