History

Legend says Andrea Doria launched a contest among Genoese pastry cooks in the 16th century for a sweet that would keep on long voyages. The tall pandolce is the older, naturally leavened form; the low version came in the late 1800s with chemical raising agents. At Christmas the youngest at the table sets a sprig of olive or bay on top, the eldest cuts the first slice, and two pieces are kept, one for a poor visitor at the door and one for the feast of San Biagio.

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Common allergens: Gluten, Milk, Nuts

Make it at home

Yield One large loafHands-on 1 hrTotal 16 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 20g fresh yeast and 300g flour for the starter
  • 500g flour
  • 100g butter, melted
  • 250g sugar
  • 200ml water with a splash of orange-flower water
  • A pinch of salt
  • 250g raisins, soaked
  • 100g candied citron, diced
  • 50g pine nuts
  • 1 tbsp fennel seeds

Method

  1. Dissolve the yeast in half a glass of tepid water, knead with the 300g flour to a firm dough and leave it covered in a warm place overnight.
  2. The next day make a well in the 500g flour and add the melted butter, sugar, orange-flower water and salt, then work in the starter and knead until smooth.
  3. Knead in the raisins, citron, pine nuts and fennel seeds, shape into a round loaf, cut a triangle on top and let it rise for a few hours.
  4. Bake at 180C for about an hour, until deep brown, and cool completely before cutting.

Tip from the editors. Keep back a slice after Christmas: Genoese tradition saves one for the feast of San Biagio, as a remedy for the throat.

Where to eat pandolce genovese

Pandolce genovese in Genoa

Focaccia e Dintorni ★ 4.4

€ Street foodCentro Storico

Focaccia e Dintorni in Genoa sells focaccia by the slice from 07:00 to 20:00 every day, and calls it the queen of Genoese street food on its own page.

TryFocaccia by the slice

TipGambero Rosso wrote in August 2026 that it draws a long line of regulars; farinata and polpettone genovese are also on the counter.

Directions

Romeo Viganotti ★ 4.5

€€ BakeryChocolate and confectioneryCentro Storico

Romeo Viganotti has made chocolate in Genoa since 1866, selling chocolates and pralines at Vico dei Castagna and running booked workshop visits.

TipGuided workshop visits last one hour and cost €15 for adults, booked by WhatsApp, according to the shop's Experience page.

Directions

Pasticceria Tagliafico ★ 4.3

€€ BakeryPandolce, fruit tartlets and cream cakesDe Ferrari Brignole

Pasticceria Tagliafico on Via Galata in Genoa has made pastries since 1890, and Gambero Rosso lists its pandolce, fruit tartlets and cream cakes.

TipIn July and August the shop closes on Sunday and opens on Monday from 07:30 to 19:30, according to its business listing.

Directions

Antico Forno della Casana ★ 4.4

€ Street foodCentro Storico

Antico Forno della Casana sells focaccia and farinata over the counter in a narrow Genoa alley, and Gambero Rosso files it under street food for 2025.

TryFocaccia genovese and farinata

TipGambero Rosso's street-food listing and its own page both point to the focaccia; the counter closes for an afternoon break from 14:00 to 16:00.

Directions

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