Modern Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Szilard Toth's Salt holds one Michelin star on Kiralyi Pal utca, a quiet downtown room cooking 15-course tastings built around fermentation, fire and Hungarian terroir, Budapest.
Signature: 15-course dinner tasting, Fermented vegetable plate
Order: The 15-course dinner tasting; EUR 90 wine pairing pours mostly Hungarian.
Tip: Counter seats face the open kitchen; book at least three weeks ahead.
Modern Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Jeno Racz's one-star Rumour is a 21-seat counter kitchen on Petofi ter where an eleven-course menu mixes Hungarian roots with Asian and European influences, Budapest.
Signature: Eleven-course tasting, Venison course
Order: The eleven-course tasting at the counter, the venison the chef's signature.
Tip: Entry is via an unmarked door; arrive at the address ten minutes early for the host.
Portuguese-Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Essencia on Sas utca holds one Michelin star for Portuguese chef Tiago and his Hungarian wife Eva, a small warm room cooking Portuguese-Hungarian tastings in Budapest.
Signature: Portuguese-Hungarian tasting, Bacalhau course
Order: The full tasting; the bacalhau course is the bridge between the two cuisines.
Tip: Eva chooses the pairing in the room; ask for Hungarian pairings over the Portuguese list.
Modern Hungarian€€€lipotvaros
MAK Restaurant on Vigyazo Ferenc near Parliament is a long-running Michelin Guide modern Hungarian room with seasonal tastings and a sharp Hungarian wine list, Budapest.
Signature: Four-course lunch tasting, Hungarian wine pairing
Order: The four-course lunch tasting; the value seat in the room.
Tip: Book the chef's counter to talk to chef Janos Mizsei mid-service.
Modern Hungarian€€€erzsebetvaros
Bock Bisztro inside the Corinthia Hotel on Erzsebet korut is a rustic-modern Hungarian kitchen with 220 wines from the Bock family Villany cellar, Budapest.
Signature: Veal cheek pörkölt, Hungarian wine flight
Order: The veal cheek pörkölt with nokedli, paired with a glass of Villany Cabernet Franc.
Tip: Hours 12:00-24:00, closed Sunday; the wine list is the deepest house list in town.
Mediterranean, Israeli€€erzsebetvaros
Mazel Tov on Akacfa utca in the Jewish Quarter is a Mediterranean ruin garden in an early 1900s courtyard, with mezze, lamb shawarma and live klezmer most nights, Budapest.
Signature: Mezze plate, Lamb shawarma
Order: The mezze plate to share, then the lamb shawarma.
Tip: Open noon to midnight daily; book a week ahead for weekends.