The restaurants worth a reservation in Budapest, from neighbourhood bistros to the new classics.
The restaurants worth the trip in Budapest. bistros, neo-classics, neighbourhood favourites, and the rooms locals book first.
Szabina Szullo and Tamas Szell's Stand cooks two-Michelin-star modern Hungarian tasting menus from a Terezvaros room near Andrassy and Liszt Ferenc ter.
OrderThe full chef's tasting; the smoked carp tortellini is the signature.
TipBookings open 60 days ahead via SevenRooms; arrive on time, tables held only 20 minutes.
Akos Sarkozi's Borkonyha behind St Stephen's Basilica on Sas utca holds one Michelin star and pours from a 200-bottle Hungarian wine list, downtown Budapest.
OrderThe mangalica pork belly with the matching pairing.
TipMon to Fri open from 18:00, Sat from 12:00, closed Sunday; book a Saturday lunch for daylight on the wine list.
Babel in Lipotvaros holds one Michelin star and cooks Austro-Hungarian fine dining with Transylvanian roots over 8 and 13-course tastings near Vaci utca.
OrderThe 13-course tasting; the smoked sturgeon course is the room's calling card.
TipOpen Wednesday to Saturday only; ask for a counter seat by the pass.
Costes on Raday utca was the first restaurant in Hungary to earn a Michelin star in 2010 and still cooks a seven-course tasting in a Ferencvaros townhouse.
OrderThe seven-course tasting with the matching wines.
TipClosed Sundays and Mondays; the in-house butter, preserves and ham are made on site.
Costes Downtown sits in the Michelin Guide on the ground floor of the Prestige Hotel near Parliament, a calmer Lipotvaros sister kitchen to the original.
OrderThe five-course tasting with the Tokaji Furmint as the opener.
TipTuesday to Saturday only; the Sunday brunch is bookable separately and fills a week in advance.
Szilard Toth's Salt holds one Michelin star on Kiralyi Pal utca, a quiet downtown room cooking 15-course tastings built around fermentation.
OrderThe 15-course dinner tasting; 36,000 Ft local wine pairing pours mostly Hungarian.
TipCounter seats face the open kitchen; book at least three weeks ahead.
Jeno Racz's one-star Rumour is a 21-seat counter kitchen on Petofi ter where an eleven-course menu mixes Hungarian roots with Asian and European influences.
OrderThe eleven-course tasting at the counter, the venison the chef's signature.
TipEntry is via an unmarked door; arrive at the address ten minutes early for the host.
Essencia on Sas utca holds one Michelin star for Portuguese chef Tiago and his Hungarian wife Eva, a small warm room cooking Portuguese-Hungarian tastings.
OrderThe full tasting; the bacalhau course is the bridge between the two cuisines.
TipEva chooses the pairing in the room; ask for Hungarian pairings over the Portuguese list.
MAK Restaurant on Vigyazo Ferenc near Parliament is a long-running Michelin Guide modern Hungarian room with seasonal tastings and a sharp Hungarian wine.
OrderThe four-course lunch tasting; the value seat in the room.
TipBook the chef's counter to talk to chef Janos Mizsei mid-service.
Klassz on Andrassy ut in Budapest's Erzsebetvaros runs a modern Hungarian carte around mangalica pork and foie gras, paired with the country's deepest.
OrderMangalica pork with a glass of Hungarian Furmint from the sommelier's list.
TipReservations not accepted; arrive 11:30 or after 21:00 to avoid the wait.
Mazel Tov on Akacfa utca in the Jewish Quarter is a Mediterranean ruin garden in an early 1900s courtyard, with mezze, lamb shawarma and live klezmer most.
OrderThe mezze plate to share, then the lamb shawarma.
TipOpen noon to midnight daily; book a week ahead for weekends.
Hungarikum Bisztro on Steindl Imre near Parliament cooks the canonical Hungarian classics, with gulyás, chicken paprikash and stuffed cabbage in a tiny.
OrderThe chicken paprikash with house nokedli and cucumber salad.
TipOnline reservation only; the room is small and books out for both lunch and dinner.
Getto Gulyas on Wesselenyi in the Jewish Quarter cooks 14 varieties of Hungarian stews and goulashes alongside Jewish-Hungarian classics, Budapest.
OrderThe rooster pörkölt with nokedli; the Jewish egg paste as a starter.
TipTiny room, no walk-ins after 19:00; reserve a day ahead Booking recommended for weekends.
Kispiac Bisztro next to the Hold utca market in the 5th district is a six-table Hungarian room cooking veal liver, pork belly and roast duck right.
OrderThe breaded veal liver with mashed potato and cucumber salad.
TipSix tables, lunch Mon to Sat noon to 22:00; book at least two days ahead.
Pierrot on Fortuna utca, the first private cafe-restaurant in Budapest since 1982, sits in a 13th-century bakery in the Buda Castle, with modern Hungarian.
OrderThe seasonal Hungarian tasting menu with the Tokaji pairing.
TipWed to Sun 11:30-23:00; book the 13th-century garden seats for a slow Castle Hill evening.
Halaszbastya Etterem occupies the neo-Romanesque Fisherman's Bastion on Castle Hill, with modern Hungarian tasting menus and panoramic Danube views over Pest.
OrderThe seasonal multi-course tasting at sunset for the Pest skyline view.
TipThree rooms in the bastion (Restaurant, Bistro, Cafe); book the Restaurant for the tasting and the terrace.
Menza on Liszt Ferenc ter is a retro-70s Budapest bistro just off Andrassy boulevard, cooking modern takes on the Hungarian canteen canon at a steady.
OrderThe Hortobagyi palacsinta, savoury crepes stuffed with veal stew under sour cream.
TipOpen 11:00-23:00 daily; the kitchen runs 11:30-22:30 and the terrace fills first.
Ket Szerecsen on Nagymezo utca, Pest's Broadway theatre strip, is a two-floor bistro and cafe serving Mediterranean-Hungarian crossover plates from breakfast.
OrderThe Mediterranean breakfast plate with avocado, jamon and Hungarian sausage.
TipOpen 08:00-24:00 weekdays, 09:00-24:00 weekends; the upstairs balcony is the quieter room.
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