Modern Hungarian€€€€terezvaros
Szabina Szullo and Tamas Szell's Stand cooks two-Michelin-star modern Hungarian tasting menus from a Terezvaros room near Andrassy and Liszt Ferenc ter, Budapest.
Signature: Paprika fish soup with smoked carp tortellini, Tasting menu
Order: The full chef's tasting; the smoked carp tortellini is the signature.
Tip: Bookings open 60 days ahead via SevenRooms; arrive on time, tables held only 20 minutes.
Modern Hungarian€€€lipotvaros
Akos Sarkozi's Borkonyha behind St Stephen's Basilica on Sas utca holds one Michelin star and pours from a 200-bottle Hungarian wine list, downtown Budapest.
Signature: Mangalica pork belly, Foie gras
Order: The mangalica pork belly with the matching pairing.
Tip: Mon to Fri open from 18:00, Sat from 12:00, closed Sunday; book a Saturday lunch for daylight on the wine list.
Modern Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Babel in Lipotvaros holds one Michelin star and cooks Austro-Hungarian fine dining with Transylvanian roots over 8 and 13-course tastings near Vaci utca in Budapest.
Signature: 13-course tasting, Smoked sturgeon
Order: The 13-course tasting; the smoked sturgeon course is the room's calling card.
Tip: Open Wednesday to Saturday only; ask for a counter seat by the pass.
International fine dining€€€€ferencvaros
Costes on Raday utca was the first restaurant in Hungary to earn a Michelin star in 2010 and still cooks a seven-course tasting in a Ferencvaros townhouse, Budapest.
Signature: Seven-course tasting, Foie gras
Order: The seven-course tasting with the matching wines.
Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays; the in-house butter, preserves and ham are made on site.
Modern European€€€€lipotvaros
Costes Downtown sits in the Michelin Guide on the ground floor of the Prestige Hotel near Parliament, a calmer Lipotvaros sister kitchen to the original Costes, Budapest.
Signature: Modern European tasting, Sunday brunch
Order: The five-course tasting with the Tokaji Furmint as the opener.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday only; the Sunday brunch is bookable separately and fills a week in advance.
Modern Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Szilard Toth's Salt holds one Michelin star on Kiralyi Pal utca, a quiet downtown room cooking 15-course tastings built around fermentation, fire and Hungarian terroir, Budapest.
Signature: 15-course dinner tasting, Fermented vegetable plate
Order: The 15-course dinner tasting; EUR 90 wine pairing pours mostly Hungarian.
Tip: Counter seats face the open kitchen; book at least three weeks ahead.
Modern Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Jeno Racz's one-star Rumour is a 21-seat counter kitchen on Petofi ter where an eleven-course menu mixes Hungarian roots with Asian and European influences, Budapest.
Signature: Eleven-course tasting, Venison course
Order: The eleven-course tasting at the counter, the venison the chef's signature.
Tip: Entry is via an unmarked door; arrive at the address ten minutes early for the host.
Portuguese-Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Essencia on Sas utca holds one Michelin star for Portuguese chef Tiago and his Hungarian wife Eva, a small warm room cooking Portuguese-Hungarian tastings in Budapest.
Signature: Portuguese-Hungarian tasting, Bacalhau course
Order: The full tasting; the bacalhau course is the bridge between the two cuisines.
Tip: Eva chooses the pairing in the room; ask for Hungarian pairings over the Portuguese list.
Modern Hungarian€€€lipotvaros
MAK Restaurant on Vigyazo Ferenc near Parliament is a long-running Michelin Guide modern Hungarian room with seasonal tastings and a sharp Hungarian wine list, Budapest.
Signature: Four-course lunch tasting, Hungarian wine pairing
Order: The four-course lunch tasting; the value seat in the room.
Tip: Book the chef's counter to talk to chef Janos Mizsei mid-service.
Modern Hungarian€€€erzsebetvaros
Bock Bisztro inside the Corinthia Hotel on Erzsebet korut is a rustic-modern Hungarian kitchen with 220 wines from the Bock family Villany cellar, Budapest.
Signature: Veal cheek pörkölt, Hungarian wine flight
Order: The veal cheek pörkölt with nokedli, paired with a glass of Villany Cabernet Franc.
Tip: Hours 12:00-24:00, closed Sunday; the wine list is the deepest house list in town.
Mediterranean, Israeli€€erzsebetvaros
Mazel Tov on Akacfa utca in the Jewish Quarter is a Mediterranean ruin garden in an early 1900s courtyard, with mezze, lamb shawarma and live klezmer most nights, Budapest.
Signature: Mezze plate, Lamb shawarma
Order: The mezze plate to share, then the lamb shawarma.
Tip: Open noon to midnight daily; book a week ahead for weekends.
Traditional Hungarian€€lipotvaros
Hungarikum Bisztro on Steindl Imre near Parliament cooks the canonical Hungarian classics, with gulyás, chicken paprikash and stuffed cabbage in a tiny old-school room, Budapest.
Signature: Gulyás soup, Chicken paprikash
Order: The chicken paprikash with house nokedli and cucumber salad.
Tip: Online reservation only; the room is small and books out for both lunch and dinner.
Traditional Hungarian€€erzsebetvaros
Getto Gulyas on Wesselenyi in the Jewish Quarter cooks 14 varieties of Hungarian stews and goulashes alongside Jewish-Hungarian classics, Budapest.
Signature: Beef goulash, Rooster pörkölt
Order: The rooster pörkölt with nokedli; the Jewish egg paste as a starter.
Tip: Tiny room, no walk-ins after 19:00; reserve a day ahead.
Traditional Hungarian€€lipotvaros
Kispiac Bisztro next to the Hold utca market in the 5th district is a six-table Hungarian room cooking veal liver, pork belly and roast duck right by the open kitchen, Budapest.
Signature: Breaded veal liver, Pork belly
Order: The breaded veal liver with mashed potato and cucumber salad.
Tip: Six tables, lunch Mon to Sat noon to 22:00; book at least two days ahead.
Modern Hungarian€€€varkerulet
Zona on Lanchid utca is a modern Hungarian bistro on the Buda side of the Chain Bridge, with river views from the upstairs room and a 200-bottle Hungarian wine list, Budapest.
Signature: Mangalica tenderloin, Tasting menu
Order: The mangalica tenderloin with foie gras butter.
Tip: Daily 12:00 to 23:00; the upstairs tables face the Danube and Parliament across the river.
Modern Hungarian€€€varkerulet
Halaszbastya Etterem occupies the neo-Romanesque Fisherman's Bastion on Castle Hill, with modern Hungarian tasting menus and panoramic Danube views over Pest in Budapest.
Signature: Hungarian tasting, Goose liver
Order: The seasonal multi-course tasting at sunset for the Pest skyline view.
Tip: Three rooms in the bastion (Restaurant, Bistro, Cafe); book the Restaurant for the tasting and the terrace.
Modern Hungarian€€terezvaros
Menza on Liszt Ferenc ter is a retro-70s Budapest bistro just off Andrassy boulevard, cooking modern takes on the Hungarian canteen canon at a steady boulevard pace.
Signature: Hortobágyi palacsinta, Túrós csusza
Order: The Hortobagyi palacsinta, savoury crepes stuffed with veal stew under sour cream.
Tip: Open 11:00 to 23:00 daily; the kitchen runs 11:30 to 22:30 and the terrace fills first.
Mediterranean, Hungarian€€terezvaros
Ket Szerecsen on Nagymezo utca, Pest's Broadway theatre strip, is a two-floor bistro and cafe serving Mediterranean-Hungarian crossover plates from breakfast to midnight, Budapest.
Signature: Mediterranean breakfast, Mangalica pork
Order: The Mediterranean breakfast plate with avocado, jamon and Hungarian sausage.
Tip: Open 08:00 to 24:00 weekdays, 09:00 to 24:00 weekends; the upstairs balcony is the quieter room.