Modern Hungarian€€€lipotvaros
Akos Sarkozi's Borkonyha behind St Stephen's Basilica on Sas utca holds one Michelin star and pours from a 200-bottle Hungarian wine list, downtown Budapest.
Signature: Mangalica pork belly, Foie gras
Order: The mangalica pork belly with the matching pairing.
Tip: Mon to Fri open from 18:00, Sat from 12:00, closed Sunday; book a Saturday lunch for daylight on the wine list.
Modern Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Babel in Lipotvaros holds one Michelin star and cooks Austro-Hungarian fine dining with Transylvanian roots over 8 and 13-course tastings near Vaci utca in Budapest.
Signature: 13-course tasting, Smoked sturgeon
Order: The 13-course tasting; the smoked sturgeon course is the room's calling card.
Tip: Open Wednesday to Saturday only; ask for a counter seat by the pass.
Modern European€€€€lipotvaros
Costes Downtown sits in the Michelin Guide on the ground floor of the Prestige Hotel near Parliament, a calmer Lipotvaros sister kitchen to the original Costes, Budapest.
Signature: Modern European tasting, Sunday brunch
Order: The five-course tasting with the Tokaji Furmint as the opener.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday only; the Sunday brunch is bookable separately and fills a week in advance.
Modern Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Szilard Toth's Salt holds one Michelin star on Kiralyi Pal utca, a quiet downtown room cooking 15-course tastings built around fermentation, fire and Hungarian terroir, Budapest.
Signature: 15-course dinner tasting, Fermented vegetable plate
Order: The 15-course dinner tasting; EUR 90 wine pairing pours mostly Hungarian.
Tip: Counter seats face the open kitchen; book at least three weeks ahead.
Modern Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Jeno Racz's one-star Rumour is a 21-seat counter kitchen on Petofi ter where an eleven-course menu mixes Hungarian roots with Asian and European influences, Budapest.
Signature: Eleven-course tasting, Venison course
Order: The eleven-course tasting at the counter, the venison the chef's signature.
Tip: Entry is via an unmarked door; arrive at the address ten minutes early for the host.
Portuguese-Hungarian€€€€lipotvaros
Essencia on Sas utca holds one Michelin star for Portuguese chef Tiago and his Hungarian wife Eva, a small warm room cooking Portuguese-Hungarian tastings in Budapest.
Signature: Portuguese-Hungarian tasting, Bacalhau course
Order: The full tasting; the bacalhau course is the bridge between the two cuisines.
Tip: Eva chooses the pairing in the room; ask for Hungarian pairings over the Portuguese list.
Modern Hungarian€€€lipotvaros
MAK Restaurant on Vigyazo Ferenc near Parliament is a long-running Michelin Guide modern Hungarian room with seasonal tastings and a sharp Hungarian wine list, Budapest.
Signature: Four-course lunch tasting, Hungarian wine pairing
Order: The four-course lunch tasting; the value seat in the room.
Tip: Book the chef's counter to talk to chef Janos Mizsei mid-service.
Traditional Hungarian€€lipotvaros
Hungarikum Bisztro on Steindl Imre near Parliament cooks the canonical Hungarian classics, with gulyás, chicken paprikash and stuffed cabbage in a tiny old-school room, Budapest.
Signature: Gulyás soup, Chicken paprikash
Order: The chicken paprikash with house nokedli and cucumber salad.
Tip: Online reservation only; the room is small and books out for both lunch and dinner.
Traditional Hungarian€€lipotvaros
Kispiac Bisztro next to the Hold utca market in the 5th district is a six-table Hungarian room cooking veal liver, pork belly and roast duck right by the open kitchen, Budapest.
Signature: Breaded veal liver, Pork belly
Order: The breaded veal liver with mashed potato and cucumber salad.
Tip: Six tables, lunch Mon to Sat noon to 22:00; book at least two days ahead.