Hanseatic€€neustadt
Old Commercial Room opposite the Michel in Hamburg has cooked Hanseatic harbour food since 1795 and is the city's canonical Labskaus address.
Order: The Original Hamburger Labskaus with fried egg, herring, beetroot and gherkin.
Tip: Open daily; lunch tables more available than dinner. Cash welcome but cards accepted.
Modern German€€€sternschanze
Tim Maelzer and Patrick Ruether's Bullerei in Hamburg's Sternschanze has cooked grilled meats and modern German in the old slaughterhouse since 2009.
Order: The dry-aged rib-eye and the seasonal handmade pasta.
Tip: Daily 12:00 to 23:00. Tables on the courtyard fill first in summer.
Modern sushi€€€altona
Werner and Steffen Henssler's Hamburg sushi room on Grosse Elbstrasse runs a 20-metre open kitchen above the Fischmarkt, the family's Cuisine Pacifique since 2001.
Order: The California-style maki and the teriyaki Faroe salmon.
Tip: Walk-up counter seats open at 18:00; arrive before to skip the wait.
Modern German bistro€€€st-pauli
Elisabeth Fuengers and Steffen Hellmann's Nil on Neuer Pferdemarkt in Hamburg's St Pauli has run a modern German bistro over three floors since 1989.
Order: The monthly four-course set menu; the daily fish course rotates.
Tip: Walk-ins possible early; bookings open online 30 days ahead for the busier weekend slots.
Modern German bistro€€€st-georg
Cox on Lange Reihe in Hamburg's St Georg has run a modern German bistro across a tight room for over two decades, with reliable lunch and dinner service.
Order: The daily lunch special; the steak frites at dinner.
Tip: Lunch tables move quickly between 12:30 and 13:30; book ahead for dinner Friday and Saturday.
French brasserie€€€altstadt
Cafe Paris on Rathausstrasse near Hamburg's Rathaus runs an art nouveau French brasserie open daily from 09:00, with bistro classics until midnight.
Order: The Steak frites and a glass of house red.
Tip: Open daily; kitchen closes at 22:30 Mon to Sat, 21:30 Sun. The ground-floor saal is the busy room.