Berlin brasserie€€€mitte
Lutter und Wegner on Berlin's Gendarmenmarkt has cooked the city's traditional Wiener Schnitzel since 1811; the wood-panelled room runs the long lunch and Sunday classics.
Signature: Wiener Schnitzel, Sauerbraten
Order: The Wiener Schnitzel with cucumber-potato salad; the Berlin sauerbraten in winter.
Tip: Sunday lunch from 12:00 is the easier seating than weekday dinner. Bookings two weeks ahead by phone.
Radical regional€€€kreuzberg
Billy Wagner and Micha Schaefer's Nobelhart und Schmutzig in Berlin's Kreuzberg cooks a 10-course tasting from ingredients sourced inside Brandenburg's 200-kilometre ring.
Signature: Brandenburg carrot, Spreewald pike-perch
Order: The full 10-course tasting; no a la carte. Carrot, pike-perch and goose top the list.
Tip: Bookings open three months ahead at 09:00 Berlin time. Closed Sunday and Monday, weekday lunch is rare.
New German€€€€mitte
Marco Mueller's Rutz in Berlin Mitte holds three Michelin stars on a Brandenburg-led tasting menu, with a wine-bar floor downstairs that serves walk-ups from 18:30.
Signature: Brandenburg lamb, Trout with horseradish
Order: The eight-course Inspiration tasting with wine pairing; the trout course is the room's signature.
Tip: The downstairs wine bar runs the same kitchen at a third of the price and takes walk-ins; arrive by 18:30.
Asian-French€€€€kreuzberg
Tim Raue's two-Michelin-star room near Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin Kreuzberg cooks a chef-led Asian-French tasting; the Peking duck is the city's defining luxury plate.
Signature: Wasabi langoustine, Peking duck
Order: The Peking duck, the wasabi langoustine and whichever pork-belly course is on; Raue's signatures stay on the carte.
Tip: Lunch tasting at EUR 178 is the easier entry vs the EUR 248 dinner. Book four weeks ahead at minimum.
Dutch new-orthodoxy€€€kreuzberg
Lode van Zuijlen and Stijn Remi's Lode und Stijn in Berlin Kreuzberg cooks a Dutch-rooted five-course tasting; the wine list runs natural, the room runs 24 covers.
Signature: Whole roast lamb, Smoked eel
Order: The five-course tasting at EUR 89; the smoked eel and whichever whole-roast meat is on are the signatures.
Tip: Bookings open six weeks ahead via the website. Closed Sunday, Monday, Tuesday.
Modern Austrian€€€€kreuzberg
Sebastian Frank's two-star Horvath on Berlin's Paul-Lincke-Ufer cooks a vegetable-led Austrian tasting; the canal-side terrace runs the summer.
Signature: Carinthian dumplings, Goat tartare
Order: The Carinthian-style cheese dumplings and whichever goat course is on; both stay on the tasting year-round.
Tip: The terrace at lunch in summer is the room's best seating. Bookings open eight weeks out at 10:00 Berlin time.