Aux Lyonnais in Paris is Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais annex on Rue Saint-Marc. Quenelle de brochet, saucisson chaud and a Beaujolais list that respects the cru wines.
Why locals love it: Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais bouchon-style annex sits unmarked behind a curtain on Rue Saint-Marc; the chef name brings the food, the lack of branding hides it.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The €40 set lunch midweek is the same kitchen at half the dinner price.
Address: 32 Rue Saint-Marc, 75002 Paris
Le Baratin in Paris's 20e is the Argentine-French intuition bistro Raquel Carena has cooked at since 1992. The chef's favourite chef's restaurant, locals say.
Why locals love it: Raquel Carena's Belleville bistro is the room every Parisian chef calls their favourite when no one is listening; the address is unsigned.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday, often Saturday too. Phone bookings only; no website, no walk-ins.
6 Paul Bert in Paris is the unsigned annex of Bistrot Paul Bert two doors down. Seafood and natural wines, 20 seats, the same group's quieter sister room.
Why locals love it: The unsigned second restaurant of Bistrot Paul Bert two doors down; a 20-seat seafood-and-natural-wine room where the same group cooks fish and shellfish.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Book a week ahead for dinner; lunch is easier walk-up.
Chez Julien in Paris's 4e sits on the Seine quai opposite Île Saint-Louis. A 19th-century painted-ceiling bistro, 15 seats, the most photographed room in the Marais.
Why locals love it: A 19th-century painted-ceiling bistro on the Seine quai opposite Île Saint-Louis with no street sign and 15 seats; the dining room sets a movie scene.
Tip: Open daily lunch and dinner. The riverside terrace is the seat; book a fortnight ahead for sunset.
Stéphane Jégo's L'Ami Jean in Paris's 7e is the Basque bistro on Rue Malar where the chalkboard menu changes daily and the riz au lait dessert pours from a saucepan.
Why locals love it: Stéphane Jégo's basque-bistro hidden on Rue Malar in the 7e, with no chalkboard outside; locals book three weeks ahead for the daily-changing menu.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Book three weeks ahead for dinner; the lunch set is the easier ticket.
La Grande Crèmerie in Paris's 6e is the small natural-wine room on Rue Grégoire-de-Tours with charcuterie plates and a 600-bottle cellar. Fourteen seats, no website.
Why locals love it: A 14-seat natural-wine room on Rue Grégoire-de-Tours in the 6e with no menu board outside; the wine cellar runs to 600 bottles.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Phone bookings only; the cellar holds the deeper natural list.
Clamato in Paris is Septime's no-reservation seafood little sister at 80 Rue de Charonne. Oysters, ceviche, grilled hake from 19:00; walk-in only, 24 stools.
Why locals love it: Septime's no-reservation seafood little sister; even regulars queue from 18:45 for the 24 stools and never know whether they'll sit.
Tip: Arrive at 18:45 for the first seating or after 21:30 for the second wave. No phone reservations.
