€€€€
Wine bar
La Buvette in Paris's 11e is Camille Fourmont's 16-seat wine bar putting white beans and fish rillettes on every editorial radar. The list is electric.
Why locals goCamille Fourmont's 16-seat wine-and-snack room hides at the back of the 11e; the white-beans-in-citrus-oil dish moves the room every weekend.
TipClosed Monday and Tuesday. Arrive at 18:00 or after 21:30 for a counter stool.
€€€€
French regional
Aux Lyonnais in Paris is Alain Ducasse's Lyonnais annex on Rue Saint-Marc. At 32 Rue Saint-Marc. Booking recommended. Cash and card accepted.
Why locals goAlain Ducasse's Lyonnais bouchon-style annex sits unmarked behind a curtain on Rue Saint-Marc; the chef name brings the food, the lack of branding hides it.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The €40 set lunch midweek is the same kitchen at half the dinner price.
€€€€
Argentine
Le Baratin in Paris's 20e is the Argentine-French intuition bistro Raquel Carena has cooked at since 1992. The chef's favourite chef's restaurant, locals say.
Why locals goRaquel Carena's Belleville bistro is the room every Parisian chef calls their favourite when no one is listening; the address is unsigned.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday, often Saturday too. Phone bookings only; no website, no walk-ins.
€€€€
French bistro
6 Paul Bert in Paris is the unsigned annex of Bistrot Paul Bert two doors down. Seafood and natural wines, 20 seats, the same group's quieter sister room.
Why locals goThe unsigned second restaurant of Bistrot Paul Bert two doors down; a 20-seat seafood-and-natural-wine room where the same group cooks fish and shellfish.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Book a week ahead for dinner; lunch is easier walk-up.
€€€€
French bistro
Chez Julien in Paris's 4e sits on the Seine quai opposite Île Saint-Louis. At 1 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.
Why locals goA 19th-century painted-ceiling bistro on the Seine quai opposite Île Saint-Louis with no street sign and 15 seats; the dining room sets a movie scene.
TipOpen daily lunch and dinner. The riverside terrace is the seat; book a fortnight ahead for sunset.
€€€€
Basque
Stéphane Jégo's L'Ami Jean in Paris's 7e is the Basque bistro on Rue Malar where the chalkboard menu changes daily. At 27 Rue Malar. Booking recommended.
Why locals goStéphane Jégo's basque-bistro hidden on Rue Malar in the 7e, with no chalkboard outside; locals book three weeks ahead for the daily-changing menu.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Book three weeks ahead for dinner; the lunch set is the easier ticket.