Steak tartare is hand-chopped raw beef seasoned at the table with capers, cornichons, shallot, egg yolk, mustard and Worcestershire. Served with a green salad and a heap of hand-cut frites.

Steak tartare became a Parisian bistro classic in the early 20th century; Larousse Gastronomique 1938 records the dish in its modern form (the apocryphal Tatar-warriors-under-saddle story is invention). The hand-chopped version (couteau, not minced) is the canonical preparation; the mixed-at-the-table service style (waiter chops shallots, capers, egg yolk, hot sauce, Worcestershire and seasoning into the meat before plating) is the Parisian bistro signature. Le Comptoir du Relais in the 6e keeps the tableside chop; Bistrot Paul Bert and Le Cinq Mars both plate hand-chopped versions every lunch. The dish is a barometer of bistro quality; if the kitchen will not hand-chop, walk out.

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